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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 04:12 PM
  #11  
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might be time to crack a beer and start reading.

Resist the temptation to start throwing parts at it as it gets pricey fast and usually doesn't solve the problem. I've had my issues with the MM Injection system.
 

Last edited by flhchaz; Nov 30, 2017 at 04:14 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 05:23 PM
  #12  
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Oh that's right, I assumed it was a carb bike.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by djgriff
I just picked up a "new to me" '96 Shrine Edition Ultra Classic. It has not run right since I got it...it backfires alot and has what I can only describe as a dead throttle (acts like no gas). It dies and starts right back up runs for a bit and does the same thing. I have put injector cleaners in and Supreme gas...need some ideas to look at
Engine temperature sensor is the heart of the system but not known to cause a engine to shut off, just run rich or lean.

Engine light coming on?

You have a fuel pressure issue, a positive way to know is checking the fuel pressure. The port is at the bottom of the fuel supply hose on the bottom of the fuel tank BUT a odd a$$ fitting is needed so most can't check fuel pressure. Something you can look for is the fuel tank liner coming loose and clogging the fuel filter, you need to pull the tank inspection plate to view the fuel pump and filter on the left inside of the fuel tank.

Fuel filter can be clogged, fuel pump getting weak, hose clamp came loose for the internal fuel line on the fuel pump, tank liner came loose. Just some guesses without testing fuel pressure.

Reason the check engine light was mentioned because a fuel pressure problem won't log a code, a engine position sensor will log a code and controls when the injectors open, it's tendency is to start up and die or not start at all but usually logs the sensor failure
 
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 08:33 PM
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Since no one else will say it I will.
The best way to fix a MM EFI system is to put a carb on it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2017 | 06:57 AM
  #15  
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^^^^^^That's what I did^^^^^^^
 
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Old Dec 4, 2017 | 08:31 AM
  #16  
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Look at the right side of your engine. Look under the cone and see if there is a brownish goo leaking out. Chances are you might need a new cam position sensor.
As said the temp sensor will add more fuel and you will also get a higher idle rpm.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Crashone
Look at the right side of your engine. Look under the cone and see if there is a brownish goo leaking out. Chances are you might need a new cam position sensor.
As said the temp sensor will add more fuel and you will also get a higher idle rpm.



That is one of the first things I would check...
 
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Old Dec 4, 2017 | 01:51 PM
  #18  
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I always check:
1') If it has a fuel tuner, take the tuner out of line. Though I doubt it does being a 1996.
1) Battery (Including Cables)
2) Pull Trouble Codes
3) Cam Position Sensor (Brown Goo dripping from Nosecone)
4) Clean Throttle body including air bleeds
5) Inspect and clean Idle Speed Control motor (ISC)
6) Crank Position Sensor Connector (Behind Right side cover make sure it is clean, and tight, then zip tie it together)
7) Then it is a matter of running through the flow charts in the FSM till you find the problem.
 

Last edited by larsfum; Dec 4, 2017 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2017 | 06:49 AM
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Well the OP hasn't come back with a report on the code if he had one. From the original post my gut reaction is head temp sensor. Mine acted the same way when it was bad. The code is 14. The p/n is 32446-95a. The cost is about $88 or so from Ronnieshd online.

Easy free and quick to see if the fault code is there. If not, I would highly recommend going back and reading 1997 bagger's post.

carl
 
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Old Dec 5, 2017 | 07:19 AM
  #20  
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Fuel filter
 
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