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The way I was taught to seat the pads and rotors was (many many moons ago) bring the vehicle speed to 60. Very firmly apply the brake till almost dead stop. Drive a couple of miles to cool the rotor and do it again. Three times if necessary but the key is to let the rotor cool between applications...
This is what I do. Key is to have good pads.
Why I use Lyndall. Had decent luck with the DP that came with the PM calipers, first go around but when I put the first rear floater on with new DP pads, work hardened rear rotor & was $200 worth of junk.
No more DP.
I've owned a wide variety of bikes, many of them with floating rotors. The ones that have given me problems are custom style expensive ones, and I also had one on a BMW crack. Never had problems with aftermarket ones, have EBC front and rear on my Glide, although as many of you may know, it's early days for that!
Quick question. It's been so long since I've done the rotor and was wondering what is the difference between the front and rear? I'd it bolt size 5/16 front and 3/8 rear? I'm using 2000 up rims. Thanx....
The way I was taught to seat the pads and rotors was (many many moons ago) bring the vehicle speed to 60. Very firmly apply the brake till almost dead stop. Drive a couple of miles to cool the rotor and do it again. Three times if necessary but the key is to let the rotor cool between applications...
Quick question. It's been so long since I've done the rotor and was wondering what is the difference between the front and rear? I'd it bolt size 5/16 front and 3/8 rear? I'm using 2000 up rims. Thanx....
Rear uses larger screws, as you mention, may also be a lttle thicker, not sure about that.
Quick question. It's been so long since I've done the rotor and was wondering what is the difference between the front and rear? I'd it bolt size 5/16 front and 3/8 rear? I'm using 2000 up rims. Thanx....
My '95 Heritage uses the same size rotors front and rear.
The different bolt size comes in when you are talking about the pulley on the rear wheel.
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