Brake Rotors - Solid vs. Floating
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From: Poolville
Brake Rotors - Solid vs. Floating
Hey guys, I was wondering if you could help me out here with brake rotors. I'm looking for ideas from you guys as to what is a good set of brake rotors for cost and Longevity wise. I've used solid OEM and I used aftermarket floating. My floating rotor on the front warped out (no caliper issues) and on the rear the rivets loosened up. I had these rotors for 3 years now and they are no good already.. I guess I really haven't seen any difference in breaking when comparing floating to solid. Is it really worth it to get floating or should I just stick with the old solid ones and go from there?.. I'm open to all suggestions. No matter what, I have to replace them this winter.. Thanx Bob...
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From: Tampa
Floating rotors are used when the caliper is fixed to its mount (fork tube or otherwise) rigidly. If you look closely at the caliper mounts on the single piston calipers it slides back and forth. This is for fixed rotors so when they heat up there can be some side to side movement.
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From: W. Texas
Not much experience with floating rotors and what little there is was troublesome.
Have had good luck with the stock solid rotors. Have installed 2 Stainless steel ones. One on mine and another on a friends. I think he is still mad me about installing that D___ squealing noisy POS on our bikes.
After 3 sets of different pads mine is at least tolerable.
WP
Have had good luck with the stock solid rotors. Have installed 2 Stainless steel ones. One on mine and another on a friends. I think he is still mad me about installing that D___ squealing noisy POS on our bikes.
After 3 sets of different pads mine is at least tolerable.
WP
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 625
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From: New Albany, Ms.
Heat
Hey guys, I was wondering if you could help me out here with brake rotors. I'm looking for ideas from you guys as to what is a good set of brake rotors for cost and Longevity wise. I've used solid OEM and I used aftermarket floating. My floating rotor on the front warped out (no caliper issues) and on the rear the rivets loosened up. I had these rotors for 3 years now and they are no good already.. I guess I really haven't seen any difference in breaking when comparing floating to solid. Is it really worth it to get floating or should I just stick with the old solid ones and go from there?.. I'm open to all suggestions. No matter what, I have to replace them this winter.. Thanx Bob...
If you look at most sport bikes, they run floating rotors. They do a lot of braking when running race courses.
I eventually went with EBC brand rotors, front & rear & they do a good job, along with the PM calipers & Lyndell Gold pads. And they look cool as hell.
imo
I think either style will work well, as long as certain steps are followed in break- in.
I personally like floaters as they win out in the cool factor.
Ride Safe,
Harold
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Find a nice long hill, kinda steep. What I do is make sure nobody is behind me and firmly pump the brakes on and off, but never stop the bike with the brake pressure applied until you're done and the rotor has cooled. The idea is to build a glaze on the new rotor that's consistent around the entire surface.
I've had issues where a new rotor gets glazed over more "slickly" in a spot where I was coming to a stop down a hill and the brakes were held down in the same spot on a new, hot rotor which caused a slick spot that felt like a warped rotor but the lever wasn't pulsing. I fixed it by sanding the whole rotor with 120 grit, then glazed them again.
Does this make sense?
I've had issues where a new rotor gets glazed over more "slickly" in a spot where I was coming to a stop down a hill and the brakes were held down in the same spot on a new, hot rotor which caused a slick spot that felt like a warped rotor but the lever wasn't pulsing. I fixed it by sanding the whole rotor with 120 grit, then glazed them again.
Does this make sense?
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Poolville
The way I was taught to seat the pads and rotors was (many many moons ago) bring the vehicle speed to 60. Very firmly apply the brake till almost dead stop. Drive a couple of miles to cool the rotor and do it again. Three times if necessary but the key is to let the rotor cool between applications...