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So, my trans sprocket took a dump. Stripped all the splines out. Who ever put it together originally didn't put any locktite on the nut and it appears they didn't make sure the keeper was in place either. Thought the transmission went out but, it's fine. I have all the parts needed ordered including new inner primary bearing and the required seals.
Question is, What to use to hold the sprocket while torquing the nut? I know there is a special tool for that but, I would rather not spend over $100 for the tool for a one time use and I don't think it will work on my bobber, there is nothing for the tail of the tool to butt up against like it shows in the manual.
Can you put the belt or chain (whichever you're using) on the sprocket, run it to the rear wheel and have a friend stand on the brakes?
Thought about doing that but, concerned about mucking up the belt. That nut has to be torqued to 60 lbs then turned another 30 to 40 degrees. Thats a pile of torque on the belt.
Thought about doing that but, concerned about mucking up the belt. That nut has to be torqued to 60 lbs then turned another 30 to 40 degrees. Thats a pile of torque on the belt.
Just not sure.
I'm willing to bet there is a hell of a lot more torque put on that belt when you are taking off in first gear and hammer it.
Install the pulley and belt, step on brake and torque nut to 50 ftlbs, mark the pulley and nut, with an impact, tighten the nut a few degrees short of 45*, check lock plate and tighten as needed to line up holes, don't tighten more than 45*
If you have any type of aluminum slotted rim, you can block it with a heavy wooden dowel (1 1/2”) to the swing arm... Takes all the stress off of the trans. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD ON STANDARD SPOKED RIMS....
Or Like THC said have a friend stand on the brakes. I've done it like that many times... There's no way you can do any harm to the belt, especially if the belt tension is properly set....
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