N65c needle length
I'm doing some carb work and was going to install the n65c needle, when I compare it to the needle I pulled out of my carb the n65c need is longer. Do I need to shim it to make it more like the stock height needed or just leave it alone drop it in and fire it up.
You can drop it in by its self, or put a small washer under it if all else is stock.
If the needle you have in it now has ring grooves and a clip, it ain't stock. If that ain't stock then someone probably changed the emulsion tube to a non-stock item and the n65c will run like dog ****.
If you don't know the story on what is going on with the carb, it might be worth while to pick up a stock emulsion tube and main jet before you button it back up with the new needle.
You can have a main jet that is marked one thing, drilled out to a different size or a kit that measures/marks differently than the HD numbers. Starting from there with half a carb kit in it, is like nailing jello to a wall to get dialed in... Particularly if you replaced the slide and diaphragm along the way, as some folks drill the slides, and other guys run thunderslides.
Before you get to tuning and changing jetting, make sure your intake manifold doesn't leak and you don't have any exhaust leaks. Half of all popping on deceleration has nothing to do with the carb. Bucking, spitting, slowing down with the throttle closed can also be a super-advanced ignition plate.
Cheers,
Zach
If the needle you have in it now has ring grooves and a clip, it ain't stock. If that ain't stock then someone probably changed the emulsion tube to a non-stock item and the n65c will run like dog ****.
If you don't know the story on what is going on with the carb, it might be worth while to pick up a stock emulsion tube and main jet before you button it back up with the new needle.
You can have a main jet that is marked one thing, drilled out to a different size or a kit that measures/marks differently than the HD numbers. Starting from there with half a carb kit in it, is like nailing jello to a wall to get dialed in... Particularly if you replaced the slide and diaphragm along the way, as some folks drill the slides, and other guys run thunderslides.
Before you get to tuning and changing jetting, make sure your intake manifold doesn't leak and you don't have any exhaust leaks. Half of all popping on deceleration has nothing to do with the carb. Bucking, spitting, slowing down with the throttle closed can also be a super-advanced ignition plate.
Cheers,
Zach
The needle I took out is a n72 I believe and yes the carb is stock. I was just curious because you hear about shimming the stock needle all the time which makes it shorter correct? But then it's ok to just drop in the n65 needle which is a bit longer than the stock needle
the cross section and taper are what change the feul mix, a washer just moves the taper up an that richens the mix. There is a chart somewhere that shows the different needle measurements, but I can't remember where I found it (maybe the keihin site)
It's 2 1/2 turns out stock. If you're having trouble with it, take it apart and clean it thoroughly. Make sure when you assemble it you don't forget to install the rubber hose that attaches to the slide/vacuum hole. If any dust gets into that slide the bike will run like crap.
It's 2 1/2 turns out stock. If you're having trouble with it, take it apart and clean it thoroughly. Make sure when you assemble it you don't forget to install the rubber hose that attaches to the slide/vacuum hole. If any dust gets into that slide the bike will run like crap.
No you should not need to shim it, the n65 needle was made for cv carbs before they had accelerator pumps, but works well with carbs that do have one








