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Hey guys , my sons 97 Dyna SuperGlide rear brake caliper seized up tight, is there a way to get it loosened up or rebuild it or is it trash?
Thanks
Have you taken it apart, and can't get the piston out? If it's apart oil it with penetrating oil and put light pressure on it with a C-clamp. After it moves you should be able to put air on it, to blow it out.
Inspect it for scarring or pitting. If it looks good, everything can be thoroughly and rebuild with the proper kit.
Also important to make sure the system has not been contaminated by mixing DOT 3&4 with DOT 5.
Have you taken it apart, and can't get the piston out? If it's apart oil it with penetrating oil and put light pressure on it with a C-clamp. After it moves you should be able to put air on it, to blow it out.
Inspect it for scarring or pitting. If it looks good, everything can be thoroughly and rebuild with the proper kit.
Also important to make sure the system has not been contaminated by mixing DOT 3&4 with DOT 5.
Thanks I figured it may be able to be saved. He told me when it seized up he wasn't going that fast and after finding out what was going on he cracked the bleeder and the pistons let off of the rotor so perhaps he can just get the kit and do as you suggest.
Thanks I figured it may be able to be saved. He told me when it seized up he wasn't going that fast and after finding out what was going on he cracked the bleeder and the pistons let off of the rotor so perhaps he can just get the kit and do as you suggest.
Hold on! This sounds like an M/C issue. If the pressure won't "bleed down" after pumping up, then the valve hole may be plugged in the M/C.
Hold on! This sounds like an M/C issue. If the pressure won't "bleed down" after pumping up, then the valve hole may be plugged in the M/C.
Ok so there is a difference between a caliper dirty and stiff needing a fresh rebuild and a master cylinder needing a rebuild? How to troubleshoot this to determine which is the culprit.
You kinda already have. Pump lt up again then break the line or bleeder at the mcylinder. If it frees up then you problem ids in the m cylinder. If not the problem is in the lines going to the m cylinder.
I had the same issue. After rebuilding the rear caliper 2 times without a fix, there was only one thing left. The master cylinder. I just bought a new and that fixed it. I should have figured that out sooner.
Thanks I figured it may be able to be saved. He told me when it seized up he wasn't going that fast and after finding out what was going on he cracked the bleeder and the pistons let off of the rotor so perhaps he can just get the kit and do as you suggest.
Like others said, if it bled off - CALIPER is NOT seized. Master cylinder is not returning. Master cylinder clean and rebuild - do the caliper too, cheap to do. Fresh fluids and he's good to go.
Help us by giving us the entire story, with all the information up front and the correct answer will come sooner.
Moisture in the system will do the same thing after riding a while. Pressure will build and apply the brake caliper to the Piston. A good flush is a lot cheaper than a rebuild... And only use DOT 5 FLUID...
The OEM master cylinder cover is cheap pot metal and will warp allowing moisture into the system... The identical thing happened to me.. I pulled over on the road side opened the bleeder to relieve the pressure so I could get home..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jul 1, 2018 at 07:24 AM.
This is all great information, Its been so long since I had to do this to my old 89 FLH but it is coming back to me now , I do recall rebuilding the master cylinder. These are great bikes when maintained properly, sure miss my 89.
They have different size bores correct? I will also give him a hand to flush the lines and rebuild the caliper . In case I can't find my hard copy service manual is there an online manual I can download?
Last edited by RidemyEVO; Jul 1, 2018 at 08:56 AM.
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