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First time I have ever had a belt issue. This belt may be the original, Iv had the 97 WG, 6 yrs and its been perfect till now, 42K mi on the bike. Had a new back tire put on about 3 weeks ago but axle alignment looks pretty good. New engine mounts about a yr ago. Belt tension looks ok.
Belt is wearing on the inside edge and a bit of a gap on the outside by pulley.
I still would re-look the alignment, since that didn't happen prior to your tire change. While you're at it, make sure the belt tension is good too. Loose belt might tend to walk more. Also, the belt still looks good to me, but that's without seeing the condition of the teeth. Good luck.
Last edited by daven9113; Jul 29, 2018 at 08:49 PM.
I think alignment is still the issue. Do you know how to check that? You can make a measuring stick out of a clothe hanger or some straight edge.
Pushing on the belt without actual 10lb force that's usually called for when you have the tool may not be accurate. I don't have the tool myself, but I've always tested it by the twist method. I grab my belt at middle point and twist. Anymore degree than 45, it's loose. I rather err on the loose side than tight though. Also check to see if there's any burrs on your rear sprocket or anything else that can be rubbing on the inside of the belt.
Last edited by daven9113; Jul 29, 2018 at 09:09 PM.
Thanks Dave, I have a tool I made to check alignment and it looks pretty good but I would think alignment would be the problem because the belt looks to be running more to the inside and a gap on the outside. Ill put it on the lift tomorrow and see if I can adj the axle to make the belt run more centered on the pulley. Thanks
The rear pulley doesn't show much about the alignment. Sure you align it by adjusting the rear wheel, but alignment issues usually reveal themselves at the front pulley, inner primary, or even at the tire.
From the information I gathered in the past year about it, there is no way to control where the belt is on the rear pulley, you only have control where it is on the front pulley, by 'steering' it with the rear.
Got to the left with the rear wheel and the belt will walk to the left on the front pulley and vice versa. Thats why the front pulley is much wider, it must be kept (somewhere) in the middle by the rear pulley.
If the belt keeps rubbing the tire, you'll need a spacer (or at least I needed one)
*edit*
Oh its a Dyna... Is your top heim (hymn, dog bone, or whatever it is called) joint still in one peace?
Last edited by Daedalus; Jul 30, 2018 at 06:14 AM.
Not true on no control of tracking on rear pulley.... Sure if it's not aligned properly it will track incorrectly on the front. You still need to straight edge it, which can only be done with the primary off. When you change out the belt, straight edge both pulleys and mark the adjusting bolts with paint. This way you always have a reference point. I went through 2 belts (both snapped and we're new) 2 years ago within a month. I've also set to 3/4" and that's fine for a stock motor but not a high torque motor. . One of the guys on here suggested I set the tension to 1/4"@10lbs. No more issues...........
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jul 30, 2018 at 06:20 AM.
What I am suggesting is that "aces&8s needs to replace the belt and at that point while the primary is off to straight edge it and mark his adjusting bolts for future reference". Definitely the most accurate way for truing the pulleys. Also once set put the trans in 2nd gear and rotate the input shaft on the trans to drive the rear pulley, this will definitely prove proper alignment. This method is not necessary when just adjusting the belt tracking. And I don't recommend anyone to take apart their primary just to confirm proper tracking. It can easily be validated just by rotating the rear wheel and visually inspecting tracking on both pulleys.. It's one of those while your in their things....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jul 30, 2018 at 08:41 AM.