That's basically the only carb (of the most popular ones) I haven't tried yet.

CV40 - Great carb, very adaptable to different engine configurations. Limited above 100hp. Hard to change needle height when installed. No pump adjustment.
CV44 - Same as 40 only felt a bit less "streetable".
HSR42 - Very adjustable carb but the main thing I don't like about it is pulling the damn tank to do anything to it. The tank has to come off to move the needle or adjust the pump stop. Also, it's the size of a friggin fireplace brick! And the return spring is pretty heavy.

I'm speculating the Super E can be fully adjusted without tank removal, and from watching videos of tuning can be adjusted many ways to fit the application. Also, I don't want to go G because I want streetability. I've heard the Super G is better for max HP, but that's not my goal. I'm not interested in a Thunderjet either, I rarely spend time at high RPM's.

Who loves their Super E and why?

 

Works great on my bike. You can swap the main jet out pretty easy. Just drop the bottom plug out. The intermediate jet requires you to remove the bowl, which with some practice and the right screwdriver, is possible without removing the carb.

 

Got Super E's on both my Evos, very simple carb to work on and tune. Pretty much once the jetting was right, never had to touch them.

 

I am pleased with mine.
It came with the crate engine I bought from S&S and required minimal adjustment.
I have another one I rebuilt to go on an up-coming project, I expect good things from it.
I doubt you will be disappointed by it if you get one.

 

This is the very simple reasons as to why I like a super e over another carb.

1. I hate the choke design of the cv carb and the stupid rubber intake boot

2. Easy to change jets

3. The teardrop air cleaner is appealing to me

 

I thought you were going with like a 103" or 106" motor? If the case don't bother with the E. I don't know where you got your info on the G not being a steetable carb, manor wise or whatever. It has very good street manors. Never a jerky throttle, very smooth from Idle on up to where ever you want to take it. Also I'm Not sure if you understand the idea behind the T-jet.... Of course it's made for the rpm range of roughly 4200-? where ever you want to take your motor to... But what the T-jet allows you to do with tuning is that it allows you to run a smaller main jet for your midrange (2800-4000 rpm) How often have you heard on here that "Need help Tuning" or "I Cant figure this out, Need Help". At 25% throttle I'm Rich but at WOT i'm Lean or Vice versa..... Usually 2 heads are better than one and when it comes to Jetting three jets are better than 2 and here's why. With the E or G carbs or even a CV the Intermediate or Pilot jet is only good to about 2800 rpm or 25% throttle and then the stronger signal starts to pull the main jet in and when that happens with a 2 jet carb, that transition makes the mixture rich at that rpm range but as you go up in rpm the AFR will start to lean out because not one (main jet) jet fits all rpm ranges. If you put an AFR meter on your bike you will see exactly what I mean... With my Wego I can see the exact rpm where each jet comes in... So back to the main jet, if you try to tune for the transition you will be lean on top... AND, AND!! Any one that says they don't really ride in hi rpm range is not being honest with themselves... Why do you build a big motor than?

So with the T-jet you can,
A) run a smaller main which will have a better transition (not as rich) which will also give you better fuel mileage and throttle response. Most of us tend to cruise in that 2700-3100 rpm range.
B) You are still protected up top. It will give you that Afr range you need up in the hi rpm range.

When it comes to changing the jets for tuning the S&S carbs are very simple. Just have to remove the Airhorn... And to make it easier to remove the bowl for the intermediate jet I replaced the regular screws with Socket cap screws.... Never an issue.....

I've always used a thunder jet but understand the reason behind it is to protect your motor from going lean....... I think you know what I mean Matt... How many times have you scored you Pistons and Cylinders?.....

 

 

Super E is a great carb. Instant response and easily modified. I would recomend the T-jet and Make sure there is the adjustable air bleed. Mine is on th outside. I had Zippers modify mine for a sportster. The air bleed determines when the main jet kicks in. I was able to get rid of the transition stumble at 70 miles an hour by changing the air bleed. The T-jet isn't some super speed jet, it's just a third circuit that helps when its needed. I've had all the carbs also and the super E is still my favorite with the Mikuni close behind.

 

Great carb,easy all around

 

I do have a 106", but HP is more the concern than displacement and the recommended carb size. Case in point, new V111's* come with a Super E and they pull over 110hp.



*Yea, I know T111, but all things similar from S&S and Super E carb regardless

I also really like the following the S&S carbs have. I've watched two videos direct from S&S about installing the carb with initial tuning, and another on fine tuning based on AFR on a dyno for cruise and WFO. Good luck finding anything like that on the Mik or CV carbs! Yes, I understand the Thunderjet adds fuel at high RPM's. Personally I'd rather jet in the 13's at cruise to keep temps down and deal with a sub-40 MPG's while having an honest 12:1 AFR at WFO without overcomplicating the carb plumbing. I may change my mind in the future, but that's why they sell Thunderjets by themselves.

"Why did I build a big motor?" TORQUE!!!!! And for something to keep my hands busy. If I wanna motor to spin up to high hell for power, I'll buy a Hayabusa.