1990 flhtcu charging question
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Tourer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 280
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From: Usa
I load tested the battery yesterday. It's definitely a good battery. So that rules out the battery, or should, anyway .I haven't had time to do any other diagnosing today
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: NW AR
On that bike, the headlight jumper is between the breakers inside the fairing.
Sounds like The Dreaded Click syndrome to me, if he did pass all the tests exactly as I wrote them out. In particular, voltage at the battery terminals with bike running at about 2K RPM test.
Sounds like The Dreaded Click syndrome to me, if he did pass all the tests exactly as I wrote them out. In particular, voltage at the battery terminals with bike running at about 2K RPM test.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2017
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From: Usa
I dont have as busy a day scheduled tomorrow, so I hope to be able to test the charging system. Hopefully that will tell me something.
as for the click...I don't have an issue starting the bike, unless the switch is clicked over on the lights. Then it won't do anything. But there is a button on the starter, so someone has had problems in the past.
as for the click...I don't have an issue starting the bike, unless the switch is clicked over on the lights. Then it won't do anything. But there is a button on the starter, so someone has had problems in the past.
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Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 93
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From: Colorado
I load tested the battery yesterday. It's definitely a good battery. So that rules out the battery, or should, anyway .I haven't had time to do any other diagnosing today
Your bike is the same as my 90 FLHTCU and you can operate the bike with the headlight off. There is a circuit breaker under your oil bag cover, make sure those and the battery connections are clean and tight. Now, FWIW, I do not start my bike with any load on the system, i.e., radio, lights, etc. I was told by an old timer HD mechanic that this was the second year of this bike with all of the electrical doo dads installed and the wiring is not the greatest. His suggestion to me was to replace the battery every year and carry spare circuit breakers. I listened to him regarding the circuit breakers and carry spares. In fact, as preventative maintenance I replaced the one that was still in my bike when I bought it but kept it. Went for a ride, got stuck in hot weather at a stupid long light, finally got going and stopped at a convenience store. When I came back out I got the dreaded click. After checking all of my connections I replaced the new breaker with my old one and it fired right up. I'm still on that old breaker. Also, make sure all of your grounds are clean and tight.
Regarding your voltage meter, as others have said, take what it says with a grain of salt. My meter will drop to 10v when stopped at a light with just the headlight on and holding the brake lever. Once I get going, the voltage climbs.
In short, I basically trained myself to turn ignition on, fire up the bike, turn headlight on, kill choke, then have fun. I rarely use the "spot lights" since I don't ride at night.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2017
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From: Usa
I load tested the battery yesterday. It's definitely a good battery. So that rules out the battery, or should, anyway .I haven't had time to do any other diagnosing today
It will be interesting to see how this gets resolved. The presence of that pulled jumper and add-on starter switch says someone's been working his way around this before.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
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From: NW AR
Well, sounds more like someone has been mucking around in the wiring then. Either keep it that way or go back to stock. But f it is working, I wouldn't mess with it.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2017
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From: Usa
Might have figured this out...bike is currently running, here's what i have, testing is being dine at the battery with my Klein tools cl1000 tester
idle, no lights...14.08v
2k rpm, no lights...14.10v
idle, lights on, no spotlights...13.12v
2k rpm. Same as above....13.88v
idle, lights&spot lights...12.84v
2k rpm, same as above...13.72v
Factory gauge reads wonky. I took off the 10 extra red lights that were on the bike...but i didn't check anything before i did that...damn it . So maybe I'm good .Time to dress out in rain gear and ride home
idle, no lights...14.08v
2k rpm, no lights...14.10v
idle, lights on, no spotlights...13.12v
2k rpm. Same as above....13.88v
idle, lights&spot lights...12.84v
2k rpm, same as above...13.72v
Factory gauge reads wonky. I took off the 10 extra red lights that were on the bike...but i didn't check anything before i did that...damn it . So maybe I'm good .Time to dress out in rain gear and ride home
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: South Carolina
When it is in "Ignition" position the bike will start, but when in "Lights" position it will not...
Put the switch in the Ignition position, then read voltage at the ignition breaker.
Do the same with the switch in the Lights position.
Tell us what your voltage readings are.
I suspect the switch is not sending power to the Ignition breaker when the switch is in the "Ignition" position.
Don`t worry about that jumper wire between the Ign breaker and Lights breaker being removed, it won`t hurt a thing, that jumper wire just caused the lights to always be on whenever ignition was on.
I`ve always thought those buttons on the solenoid were a way to avoid getting a simple electrical circuit to work...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Aug 21, 2018 at 06:49 PM.