94 fxdl
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2018
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From: Ohio
94 fxdl
Im picking up a 94 Low Rider this weekend. I have an 85 FXRS that i love...anything i should look out for on the 94. Any problems with the engines in 94 that i should be aware of.Bike is solid, only thing i see that has been changed are a set of T bars and some slip ons. Other than that shes stock, only has 30K on the clock...Chewy
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Tampa
Pulled case studs, indicated by a leaking base or head gasket. Ask if the motor's ever been apart. That'll be a good indication some back-woods horse's *** tightened the head bolts too much and the stud may pull when hot.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Haslet Texas
You can have leaking base or head gaskets and not have pulled case studs.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 159
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From: Sydney, Australia
The case studs can be a problem...you will have the crappy INA bearing so ask if any engine work has been done and if the bearing was changed, remember most sellers will tell you what you want to here so they will say yes.
The 94 that I picked up recently had the cam changed but not the bearing, so I changed it when my head gasket blew.
That the main things I can think of.
Enjoy.
Dave.
The 94 that I picked up recently had the cam changed but not the bearing, so I changed it when my head gasket blew.
That the main things I can think of.
Enjoy.
Dave.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
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From: Brighton, MI
I agree with all of the above and also agree that the base gasket can leak even is the studs are fine. Mine leaked a little for 4 or 5 seasons till I did something about it. Leak was minor. It usually leaked more after a long sit/storage like winter, then in spring with riding, gasket would swell and seal back up and the leak would slow way down. Finally I swapped out the cheap paper gaskets and all is well.
Stator plug is a common evo issue also, the connection point can loosen up and you wont know it, then short out the stator, voltage reg, etc. It can also just simply leak and is a pain to replace/repair.
Engine mounts, they are rubber, get old and break down. Especially the front one. Oil gets on the front mount from an oil filter change and helps break down the rubber faster. The engine will sag and the front exhaust pipe will get closer to the frame. About an inch is normal. Anything closer and mount is sagging. A failing rear mount will make the azz end shake or vibrate at low speed and engine alignment will go out of whack. Engine mounts, wheel alignment, and wheel tracking correctly are all tied together because the swing arm bolts to the trans, and the trans bolts to the engine. If alignment is off, everything else will be also.
The above is just a some heads up, and issues I had with my bike. Engine mounts are not a deal breaker and somewhat easy to change. Cost about 150 for both. But is something to look at if you actually buy it. Checking alignment is one of the first things I would do after purchase. Same with stator, just time consuming. Otherwise, just little minor "normal stuff" and upgrades. YD
Stator plug is a common evo issue also, the connection point can loosen up and you wont know it, then short out the stator, voltage reg, etc. It can also just simply leak and is a pain to replace/repair.
Engine mounts, they are rubber, get old and break down. Especially the front one. Oil gets on the front mount from an oil filter change and helps break down the rubber faster. The engine will sag and the front exhaust pipe will get closer to the frame. About an inch is normal. Anything closer and mount is sagging. A failing rear mount will make the azz end shake or vibrate at low speed and engine alignment will go out of whack. Engine mounts, wheel alignment, and wheel tracking correctly are all tied together because the swing arm bolts to the trans, and the trans bolts to the engine. If alignment is off, everything else will be also.
The above is just a some heads up, and issues I had with my bike. Engine mounts are not a deal breaker and somewhat easy to change. Cost about 150 for both. But is something to look at if you actually buy it. Checking alignment is one of the first things I would do after purchase. Same with stator, just time consuming. Otherwise, just little minor "normal stuff" and upgrades. YD
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Lafayette, Louisiana
The 94 engine will have most things in common with the 85. The cases are somewhat stronger on the 90's.
The cam bearing is worse on the new one and should be changed to a Torrington if you go in there.
Most of the time, if the timing cover is still original and has rivets holding it on, the cam is original and the internals of the engine have not been touched.
Check the condition of the rubber mounts simply because of their age.
Flush the brakes thoroughly and inspect the calipers if you buy it.
Clean the contacts on the ignition switch.
And most importantly, post pictures of it. We like pictures.
The cam bearing is worse on the new one and should be changed to a Torrington if you go in there.
Most of the time, if the timing cover is still original and has rivets holding it on, the cam is original and the internals of the engine have not been touched.
Check the condition of the rubber mounts simply because of their age.
Flush the brakes thoroughly and inspect the calipers if you buy it.
Clean the contacts on the ignition switch.
And most importantly, post pictures of it. We like pictures.
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 34
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From: Ohio
Thanks guys
Thanks for the replies. I pretty sure the cam s stock,m rivets in timing cover. I will probably put an EV27 in her and change to a torrington bearing at that time. B138 iirc. I have the Georges Garage puller and installer. Other than that, shes seems leak free and runs great. Still has original air cleaner and CV carb, which i like, Vance and Hines slip ons and T bars are the only changes i can find....yup, I am happy as hell!!!!
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