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Not adding anything you haven't heard already but ill add most people tend to lug their motors when taking about a Harley especially experienced riders coming from metric bikes. They're just not the same.
Just the opposite here... most metric riders spin the stem windin **** outa Harley...
I like to ride at close to peak torque and under... Most big twin Harleys achieve peak torque at between 3000 and 3500....
where do you think peak torque is on a Metric sport bike???? Certainly pushing double that for some... or sounds like it anyway!!!!
Originally Posted by Prot
you are also looking for significant differences between the two cylinders.
Why???? Would you back one off??? This is in fact a Twingle... and anything applied is fine... Take it from a Guy who had a Single cylinder Sportster years ago.... COB
Only Vibration will change... Maybe.
Last edited by Racepres; Sep 18, 2018 at 05:24 PM.
Just the opposite here... most metric riders spin the stem windin **** outa Harley...
I like to ride at close to peak torque and under... Most big twin Harleys achieve peak torque at between 3000 and 3500....
where do you think peak torque is on a Metric sport bike???? Certainly pushing double that for some... or sounds like it anyway!!!!Why???? Would you back one off??? This is in fact a Twingle... and anything applied is fine... Take it from a Guy who had a Single cylinder Sportster years ago.... COB
Only Vibration will change... Maybe.
Yes vibration will change which I suspect is part of what is causing the screaming perception. Another thing is, a big variance would indicate disproportionate wear or something wrong on one cylinder. That gives reason to investigate further to remedy the problem so that it can run as well as it should.
If one cylinder is 165 psi and the other is 100 psi, it would be kind of dumb to ignore that.
It is worth noting that if your concern is based on the perception that the engine is screaming, there is a somewhat unexpected cure for that.
Change the cam to an Andrew's EV27. While in there change the cam bearing.
Install a free flowing air cleaner.
Reject the carburetor.
Install a dynatek ignition module.
These changes will produce more power and it will have an easier time at the higher speeds.
I bought it with an Andrews EV13, free flow air cleaner and performance exhaust. Not likely to change much more in the engine. Although that is extremely tempting.
I would never reject my carb. Thats just mean ;-)
I bought it with an Andrews EV13, free flow air cleaner and performance exhaust. Not likely to change much more in the engine. Although that is extremely tempting.
I would never reject my carb. Thats just mean ;-)
I have an EV13 myself along with some minor head work etc.
I wouldn't do a gear change without upgrading the motor... It will make it more of a dog... Maybe even cause a little detonation on a hot motor when coming off the line..
As the guys say, just run it as it is and don't worry about it. Cam, cam bearing, lifters, fix/replace the carb if needed, but gearing wise, you are better off running at the higher RPM. That's where the power is. As I've said before, I once left for Sturgis, 1K miles away, and lost the speedo sender before I got out of town. Just set the tach at 4k to 4200 in 5th gear and left it there. In Sturgis, I replaced the sender and sort of realized how fast I had been going. That explained why I was passing so many....
As the guys say, just run it as it is and don't worry about it. Cam, cam bearing, lifters, fix/replace the carb if needed, but gearing wise, you are better off running at the higher RPM. That's where the power is. As I've said before, I once left for Sturgis, 1K miles away, and lost the speedo sender before I got out of town. Just set the tach at 4k to 4200 in 5th gear and left it there. In Sturgis, I replaced the sender and sort of realized how fast I had been going. That explained why I was passing so many....
Funny.... Most guys without a tach think their motor is screaming when it actually isn't. You were just the opposite LOL...
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