Another VOES question...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,093
Likes: 7,622
From: Poolville
Ignition advance does relate to AFR's. The more advance the hotter and leaner the motor runs. If you decrease the timing (retard) it will richen the AFR's, requiring the you to lean it out a tad... Let us know how that works for you....
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,080
Likes: 2,153
From: Ohio
Yes sir, especially loaded in the throttle roll on detonation range, AFR's first, timing second. Pulling timing is loss of power
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 501
Likes: 150
From: Jersey
Im not sure Id call the vacuum operated petcock problematic... but KG is correct in that if it goes out on the road, a tie wrap, tape or bailing wire wont get you home... but I dont know of it being a regular occurrence. Something like a points ignition or those crappy inline fuel filters are problematic in that you can lay odds you will be dealing with them on some kind of regular basis.
The issue with a on/off petcock is you better turn it off everytime you stop or you run the risk of having a siphon condition happen and gas starts running out of the carb. I was with a guy once that drained his gas tank while we were 20 miles from anything lol. Lucky it didnt ignite.
I can always spot an old timers bike in a parking lot... even when its a vacuum operated unit, the petcock is always turned off. Years of procedural muscle memory or neurological plasticity!!
The issue with a on/off petcock is you better turn it off everytime you stop or you run the risk of having a siphon condition happen and gas starts running out of the carb. I was with a guy once that drained his gas tank while we were 20 miles from anything lol. Lucky it didnt ignite.
I can always spot an old timers bike in a parking lot... even when its a vacuum operated unit, the petcock is always turned off. Years of procedural muscle memory or neurological plasticity!!
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 147
Likes: 61
From: Mulkeytown, IL
It concerns me that it ran good with a split hose to the VOES. I wonder if the carb hadn't been adjusted "rich" to accommodate the vacuum leak that would have been present with the split hose. That may be why it ran bad after "plugging the leak."
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 1,145
From: Directly above the center of the Earth
Well, I wouldn't say it ran 'good', but ran decently enough. Apparently though it wasn't running as well as I was sure it should, or I'd not have looked into all this stuff, heh. Plus, seeing the split/cracked hose line just made me want to replace everything anyway.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 1,145
From: Directly above the center of the Earth
Okay, *FINALLY* my VOES came in. Just put it on and took the bike for a test ride around the backroad I use. It still wasn't right, ran like it did without the VOES connected.
Decided I'd better check something, so I broke out the service manual and found the electrical layout page with the VOES wires on it, and sure enough...I have the two wires crossed. The V/W wire should be plugged into the *TOP* wire of the VOES (the 'top wire' being the wire at the top vertically of the two wires coming out of it with the vacuum nipple on the VOES sticking straight up toward the tank, at least on the '97 and '98 FXD's). Figures I'd screw it up with a 50/50 chance! Good thing I don't ever play the lotto!
I'll swap the wire connections in the morning before I go 30+ miles to get my prescription refilled and let everyone know if it's finally the way it should be.
As an addendum, with the VOES not working, my bike runs a bit hot, and was the reason I asked about needing to make it richer to compensate until I got the new VOES back on the bike.
Decided I'd better check something, so I broke out the service manual and found the electrical layout page with the VOES wires on it, and sure enough...I have the two wires crossed. The V/W wire should be plugged into the *TOP* wire of the VOES (the 'top wire' being the wire at the top vertically of the two wires coming out of it with the vacuum nipple on the VOES sticking straight up toward the tank, at least on the '97 and '98 FXD's). Figures I'd screw it up with a 50/50 chance! Good thing I don't ever play the lotto!
I'll swap the wire connections in the morning before I go 30+ miles to get my prescription refilled and let everyone know if it's finally the way it should be.
As an addendum, with the VOES not working, my bike runs a bit hot, and was the reason I asked about needing to make it richer to compensate until I got the new VOES back on the bike.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 757
Likes: 366
From: Winnipeg
Im pretty sure it doesnt matter which wire is connected to the ignition. The voes is just a switch that is either open- or closed. It doesnt carry any voltage or current. All it does is show your ignition module a ground signal or not.
one wire IS longer than the other- i need the long wire to make the distance to my ignition connection.
BTW- if you are running without a voes- you are supposed to ground the wire that connects to the voes from the ignition.
one wire IS longer than the other- i need the long wire to make the distance to my ignition connection.
BTW- if you are running without a voes- you are supposed to ground the wire that connects to the voes from the ignition.
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