That's cool... thank you...

 

Well, switched the wires anyway (I figured what the heck, do it like the elctrical wriing schematic says), and it didn't make any difference.

Found out another thing too...I put the manifold seals and flanges on way, way too tight, and it looks like I have the flanges turned the wrong way (I have the 'open' bolt hole on the left side of the cylinders, instead of toward the carb), and even more possible I may have the flanges upside down.

The picture and removal/installation instructions in the service manual (the H-D manual, *NOT* some aftermarket junk) don't specifically say how to do *any* of it *except* on installation to only tighten the bolts 15-17 foot pounds. I've been cranking the bolts down (evenly, not one side at a time) until they're 'tight' and can't be turned anymore. Here's the picture in my service manual:
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TOR%20ASSEMBLY

The reason I looked into this was, I pulled in to my garage and broke out the timing light to check the rpm's and they were good, then I wanted to adjust the rich/lean according to the book, so, I started to turn the idle mixture screw in until it would make the bike start to run a little rough...and kept turning it in, and kept turning it in, and it finally bottomed out and the motor just kept right on happily running exactly as it was no matter how much I moved the mixture screw in or out. <grumble>

So, that told me I'm made one hell of an intake leak by cranking those seals too tight down. Luckily I've got one more pair of them, so I'm going to try this **** once more and hope I can *finally* get this problem of too damn lean over with.

Just in case though, here's what I see in the service manual:

The seal goes against the cylinder 'cone side' facing away toward the manifold end.
The flange goes 'flat side' down on the seal, not the beveled side on the seal.
Put these on the manifold and install the bolts finger tight, put the carb on to get it where it's supposed to sit vertically and all, then tighten the flange bolts to 15-17 foot pounds.

Here's the thing though...both my flanges have a small raised 'dot' on one side near one of the bolt holes, and a 'F' one (I presume the 'Front' cylinder) and a 'R' on the other for the 'Rear' cylinder. This letter should be facing 'up', away from the cylinder, correct?

Appreciate all the help and patience you guys are giving me with this.

 

Put the flanges on the intake with the bevel showing out towards the cylinder head port. Then slip the beveled seal into the flange. The open end of the flange points away from the carb.... (As your sitting on the bike looking down at the intake from the primary side, you should see the open end of the flange) I Don't understand how you did it but this is the way they are supposed to be installed...

 

That's how I did it. It's just that the picture in the service manual looks completely different. I guess all I was doing wrong then is just mashing the seals way too much and they weren't doing any sealing at all, heh. Thanks, 98hotrodfatboy.

 

Have you tried spraying brake Kleen around the area where the seals meet the heads? Only spray from the carb side preferably with the red straw that comes with the can so you don't suck any in through the air cleaner...

Do you gave Vacuum Grease (it's a clear silicon based grease)? I always use it to help with the sealing of the intake. I put a little on the inside of the seal so it slides to the head better without deforming it...

 

I used a *very* thin layer of bearing grease and they slid around fine, it's just that I didn't know to not crank the bolts down so hard. 15-17 foot pounds is barely anything. I cranked the bolts til they couldn't turn anymore. I'll bet money when I remove the seals they'll be deformed to hell and back from way too much pressure on them.

 

Okay, got that all done and put back together. No intake leaks, but the idle mixture still doesn't seem to be making any difference.

The only thing left is timing is off some, or the cam position sensor itself is going bad. That's all I can come up with.

So, I went looking for a new timing assembly since the stock one is $182. Found an Ultima (Dyna 2000i) for $124 ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-2000i-...pSOJLk&vxp=mtr ).

I have a screamin' eagle coil on the bike, would I be able to set this ignition to single fire with this coil? I wouldn't have to change the stock ignition module would I? Is there something else as good and as easy to set up yet even cheaper?

 

If you cannot change the idle at all with the mixture screw then something is plugged in the carb... Period... As for the ignition, I'm not sure if you have a single fire or dual for a coil. Dual fire has 2 electrical connection studs and single fire has 3. The Ultima ignition you posted can do either.. I would look into the carb before replacing the ignition....

 

Okay, I'll look over the carb. Thanks man. I've had that thing on and off so many times the past month I can damn near do it blindfolded now, heh.