'97 Dyna- what should I look for regarding issues?
Well, if you're like an amoeba or something, that's pretty old.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 193
From: Las Vegas, NV
I went and looked at the bike, didn't buy it...yet. It is really nice and clean but, of course its old. It probably needs a clutch cable; its a bit hard to pull, feels a bit gummed up. Just sitting in the garage the rear brake pedal felt a bit soft; it'll need a good fluid flush (as has been mentioned). Its very cold blooded; took a while with the choke to run/idle on its own....we'll see. He's waiting for the title to come from DMV and I threw out a figure I would be comfortable with. We left it on a number he's considering and it being dependent on him having the title and me taking a short ride on it. We'll see what happens. At this point i'm a bit indifferent.
Last edited by vistavette; Oct 23, 2018 at 05:33 PM.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
I went and looked at the bike, didn't buy it...yet. It is really nice and clean but, of course its old. It probably needs a clutch cable; its a bit hard to pull, feels a bit gummed up. The Just sitting in the garage the rear brake pedal felt a bit soft; it'll need a good fluid flush (as has been mentioned). Its very cold blooded; took a while with the choke to run/idle on its own....we'll see. He's waiting for the title to come from DMV and I threw out a figure I would be comfortable with. We left it on a number he's considering and it being dependent on him having the title and me taking a short ride on it. We'll see what happens. At this point i'm a bit indifferent.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Directly above the center of the Earth
I got my '98 with 28,000 miles on it for $4500, bone stock. You need to talk this guy down to that price, because you'll need to change the seals in the forks (I did a complete rebuild, easy and pretty inexpensive), the wheel bearings will need to be either re-packed or new put in because by now that 20 year old grease that hasn't been used is dry and not lubricating (I can guarantee this!), hoses (like others have said), and yes - check those tires! I got lucky as hell with mine and one day happened to look them over (after I'd already put a thousand or so miles on the bike!) and saw the beginnings of a crack going all the way around the outer wall of both tires on both sides! Imagine the ****-storm I'd have been in if either one had just gave way while at speed!
Check (and adjust if need be) the primary chain shoe and chain, and the final drive belt. Vacuum lines/hoses will also be close to rotting after that amount of time, lift the tank out of the way and replace them from petcock to VOES to carb (careful pulling the old hoses off those nipples as the nipples are slightly dry too now and can break easier than when new).
Just for ***** and giggles, I'd clean and rebuild the carb. If old gas was allowed to stay in there, it turns into this shellac-like substance that is hard as a rock and pretty much impossible to break down and clean out of lines and such.
Check (and adjust if need be) the primary chain shoe and chain, and the final drive belt. Vacuum lines/hoses will also be close to rotting after that amount of time, lift the tank out of the way and replace them from petcock to VOES to carb (careful pulling the old hoses off those nipples as the nipples are slightly dry too now and can break easier than when new).
Just for ***** and giggles, I'd clean and rebuild the carb. If old gas was allowed to stay in there, it turns into this shellac-like substance that is hard as a rock and pretty much impossible to break down and clean out of lines and such.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,476
Likes: 193
From: Las Vegas, NV
I got my '98 with 28,000 miles on it for $4500, bone stock. You need to talk this guy down to that price, because you'll need to change the seals in the forks (I did a complete rebuild, easy and pretty inexpensive), the wheel bearings will need to be either re-packed or new put in because by now that 20 year old grease that hasn't been used is dry and not lubricating (I can guarantee this!), hoses (like others have said), and yes - check those tires! I got lucky as hell with mine and one day happened to look them over (after I'd already put a thousand or so miles on the bike!) and saw the beginnings of a crack going all the way around the outer wall of both tires on both sides! Imagine the ****-storm I'd have been in if either one had just gave way while at speed!
Check (and adjust if need be) the primary chain shoe and chain, and the final drive belt. Vacuum lines/hoses will also be close to rotting after that amount of time, lift the tank out of the way and replace them from petcock to VOES to carb (careful pulling the old hoses off those nipples as the nipples are slightly dry too now and can break easier than when new).
Just for ***** and giggles, I'd clean and rebuild the carb. If old gas was allowed to stay in there, it turns into this shellac-like substance that is hard as a rock and pretty much impossible to break down and clean out of lines and such.
Check (and adjust if need be) the primary chain shoe and chain, and the final drive belt. Vacuum lines/hoses will also be close to rotting after that amount of time, lift the tank out of the way and replace them from petcock to VOES to carb (careful pulling the old hoses off those nipples as the nipples are slightly dry too now and can break easier than when new).
Just for ***** and giggles, I'd clean and rebuild the carb. If old gas was allowed to stay in there, it turns into this shellac-like substance that is hard as a rock and pretty much impossible to break down and clean out of lines and such.
All good info. I left him with $4,800, we'll see what happens
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
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Likes: 193
From: Las Vegas, NV
Let me clarify. I didn't get it for $4,800, I offered that amount and he said to give him a day or so to consider it. He's also waiting for the title.