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Do you know what grease HD re-branded as their own? 'casue I know they don't make it!!!
Are you referring to this product?
HD Wheel Bearing Grease
Recommended for wheel bearings, steering head bearings (other than 97-later Softail and Dyna) and rear swingarm bearings.
99855-89 1-lb. Can
99856-92 14-oz. Standard Grease Gun Cartridge
fwiw, i can feel and see the movement right at the bearings, particularly the left side. Not saying that's definitive, but .... at 45k, I'm going to do the bearings regardless. Any procedure to check the forks?
Check the forks how ? Or are you talking about checking wheel & axle end play ? There is a spec in the manual I always have to look up.
I forget what kind it was but the first wheel bearing grease didn't work so well.
Thanks for the tip on the on the other greases that will work.
Do you know what grease HD re-branded as their own? 'casue I know they don't make it!!!
Pretty much all the higher end name brand synthetics are good, I went to the Green over the Mobil red because it feels a bit thicker and more tacky. Shovels sure seem to like it.
fwiw, i can feel and see the movement right at the bearings, particularly the left side. Not saying that's definitive, but .... at 45k, I'm going to do the bearings regardless. Any procedure to check the forks?
Just a heads up, you will need a special tool to remove the old races, and setting the play requires you use spacer shims till you get the correct amount of end play. The manual spells it out pretty clear, and there are posts on this forum as well.
I found it easier to set set up the end play with the axle/wheel mounted in a vise as it is the torque value that determines the value of the shims. Then when you get the end play correct you install on the bike. Might need a few extra spacers, cut pieces of pipe, sockets, etc to take up the slack in the axle since it is not on the bike. YD
Check the forks how ? Or are you talking about checking wheel & axle end play ? There is a spec in the manual I always have to look up.
He may be referring to my post regarding bushing wear inside the fork sliders. They wear after a few million cycles, and can become "bell mouthed" or oblong. Forks with increased rake seem to wear their bushings quicker than steeper fork angles. Fork oil has a bit to do with this "wear" thing, too.
Remove the front wheel, and at the axle, push/pull in a longitudinal motion and see if you feel any play at all. If you do feel play, then bushing/fork leg replacement is in order. Maybe set-up a dial indicator to measure if needed.
He may be referring to my post regarding bushing wear inside the fork sliders. They wear after a few million cycles, and can become "bell mouthed" or oblong. Forks with increased rake seem to wear their bushings quicker than steeper fork angles. Fork oil has a bit to do with this "wear" thing, too.
Remove the front wheel, and at the axle, push/pull in a longitudinal motion and see if you feel any play at all. If you do feel play, then bushing/fork leg replacement is in order. Maybe set-up a dial indicator to measure if needed.
Yeah dealt with a lot of that business back in the chopper days and the old wide glide sliders that had pressed in bushing that had to be reamed to size, seen many a set of tired wobble out legs.
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