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You can test a coil with an ohmmeter. Connect both ends to a different side of the coil and I think it should read 2 - 3 ohms. But, there might be different coils that read higher. I'm at work so I might be off on the details. I've had loose battery cables cause misfiring. I had to replace my electronic ignition to solve my problem with sputtering and dying.
I used the ohmmeter on the two small posts on the coil and it read 2.7. The battery is brand new and nice and tight. It very well could be the ignition module but I don't think there is any way to test it other than buying a new one which is $340 locally.
Originally Posted by Superdog3:16
Coils aren't necessarily either good or bad. They can slowly go to hell. Does the spitting and sputtering ALWAYS end up killing the bike? If it does, I'm betting coil. IDK as far as your other symptoms. Like another above said, ohm it out. IDK the readings you should get for it to be good. Google it.
So the bike will sit there and idle half decent once it's warm. But if I twist the throttle back she'll hesitate or backfire and spit out the carb. Once I'm actually riding in 1st it will buck and sputter like crazy so I have to pull the clutch in to keep it from stalling out. Hopefully that gives you a better idea
Wish I knew. Sounds like your coil is good. I only chimed in cuz I've have all types of engines run fine, after they warm up, at some point, start bucking, then shorty die and won't start period. No spark. Always been the coil. There's a possibility it still could be after it warms up it degrades, but yours doesn't die. Sux that damn reg costs so much
Wish I knew. Sounds like your coil is good. I only chimed in cuz I've have all types of engines run fine, after they warm up, at some point, start bucking, then shorty die and won't start period. No spark. Always been the coil. There's a possibility it still could be after it warms up it degrades, but yours doesn't die. Sux that damn reg costs so much
For sure. I'm thinking of getting a new coil anyways ($80 local) to try worst case I'll have another for when the times comes that I'll need it. Not sure if I could buy a ign module and take it back if it doesn't fix the issue. haha
So the bike will sit there and idle half decent once it's warm. But if I twist the throttle back she'll hesitate or backfire and spit out the carb. Once I'm actually riding in 1st it will buck and sputter like crazy so I have to pull the clutch in to keep it from stalling out. Hopefully that gives you a better idea
Backfiring out the carb is usually a vacuum leak...spray some carb cleaner in the intake manifold while it is running and see if it changes the idle
Before you start throwing your money around I would drop the bowl on the carb and see whats going on there... Does't cost a cent.
Your coil seems ok at 2.7 ohm... Think of it this way. An ignition module will not go bad from not using it. However a carb full of fuel sitting around for months might have the tendency to plug up...
Before you start throwing your money around I would drop the bowl on the carb and see whats going on there... Does't cost a cent.
Your coil seems ok at 2.7 ohm... Think of it this way. An ignition module will not go bad from not using it. However a carb full of fuel sitting around for months might have the tendency to plug up...
Alright let me mention I've had the carb off several times in the fall when the bike was starting to act up (after a summer of running fine). The carb is clean and looks brand new inside and out.
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