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You heated up the wrong spot.Heat the nut. If you do you an impact,use it in a very short burst,just enough to move the nut a tiny bit. the impact can knock the magnets loose on the rotor.
Mapp gas torch heat on the nut. A 1/4 x1" steel flat bar rounded and correct length to engage sprockets at a slight angle and a impact. Tensioner removed. Locked up correctly, you will not have any trouble with magnets. I still use two delrin blocks custom cut to fit front and rear. Just hit it with a 3/4 impact. Hanging off end of crank with a 5 foot pipe is a good way to bend crank.
Pretty sure that big hex is going to turn into a big internal nut. Be sure you get all the red loctite out of it back behind end of threads. Before reassemble, make sure it is free all the way up on crank.
When going back, either use correct loctite primer or at least clean with a good degreaser . Correct red permeant grade loctite. Torque correctly. AutoZone has a free loaner 200 lb torque wrench. Some say you can torque lower and then go a degree but when compensator winds up, not sure how you apply angle.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 17, 2019 at 02:49 PM.
I don't know your experience with HD's but the compensator nut is right hand thread and the clutch hub nut is left hand thread.
Just thought I'd throw that into the mix.
AGAIN.... in case he missed it the first time.
The compensator nut is loosened by turning it counterclockwise. Clutch hub nut has backwards threads. Loosens when turned clockwise.
As previously mentioned, when youre ready to put it all back together be sure all the old red loctite has been removed. Ive found a dental pick can be useful for getting all of it out. Then turn the nut all the way down to make sure the threads are perfectly clean before pulling it back off, thoroughly degreasing and applying new loctite.
Last edited by guido4198; Mar 17, 2019 at 12:46 PM.
I thought if you had a shovel bottom (as this bike might since it's an 85) you couldn't use an impact wrench to get the nut off because it could shake the stator magnets loose. When I pulled the primary off my shovel, I used a 1/2" x 24" breaker bar and a 4' cheater pipe. I talked it right off.
When I pulled the primary off my EVO, I just murdered it with the impact gun. no worries.
I believe when I torqued both compensators back together, I used 2 drops of red locktite, no more. It was in the FSM procedure.
Anybody get a compensator nut off a shovel with the impact gun and not wreck the stator?
Yup, done both Shovel and Evo with an impact no problem. I personally wouldnt worry about the stator being damaged by using an impact because there is no way that one would be going back in there. Now is the time to get a nice Cycle Electrics stator rotor and regulator and be done with it. Just put the same on my 85 FXRS while i had it apart. You would kick yourself if ya got her back together and then the stator failed.
I thought if you had a shovel bottom (as this bike might since it's an 85) you couldn't use an impact wrench to get the nut off because it could shake the stator magnets loose. When I pulled the primary off my shovel, I used a 1/2" x 24" breaker bar and a 4' cheater pipe. I talked it right off.
When I pulled the primary off my EVO, I just murdered it with the impact gun. no worries.
I believe when I torqued both compensators back together, I used 2 drops of red locktite, no more. It was in the FSM procedure.
Anybody get a compensator nut off a shovel with the impact gun and not wreck the stator?
carl
Too many times to count, seen 2 bad rotors on shovels. Evo's on the other hand I've replaced a few dozen trashed rotors both from stripped splines and exploded magnets.
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