1998 flstf voes or not?
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Stage II
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 2
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From: Australia
1998 flstf voes or not?
Hi everyone I'm new to this forum.
I had some custom work done to my 1998 Fatboy which I've owned for 10 years. It sounds like it has a cam in it but I'm not 100 per cent certain. New work done, wide rear, new tins with custom paint. Got some Vance and Hines big radius pipes. It has a stock cv carb but looks like the jets are bigger possibly a 185 main. Not certain about the others.
I had some issues with guy putting
it together. Custom paint in the wrong place and seat coverings g it. Front fender rivets rattled loose. Axel mounted rear licence plate broke off with vibrations.
He didnt clean out new fuel tanks and painting particles and masking tape left inside. He couldn't get my bike running properly and in his frustration to finish the work told me I needed an sns carb and a dyno cause my bike wont run properly the way it is. I took the bike and found the fuel tanks full of crap and the strainer blocked. He charged me for a carbie kit, new lines etc. When I was there with him the needle for the main jet was bent and he blamed everyone except himself and said it was always like that. He disconnected the voes and broke the plastic hose piece off the switch. He said voes is **** and it doesn't need it. I've researched voes since and found it is needed. Basically I just can't put it back in his hands and it has cost me so much.
Anyway after sorting the fuel system and carb issues I have my bike running again but I feel the timing advance isnt working properly now. The voes has been bypassed and the actual voes switch is broken by the mechanic. (I'm not taking my bike back there).
For my question what are my options. I am considering a new programmable ignition.
Do I need to fix the voes. Or can it be removed and the new ignition take care of the timing.
Thanks any help would be appreciated. I spent so much and my bike is a mess.
I had some custom work done to my 1998 Fatboy which I've owned for 10 years. It sounds like it has a cam in it but I'm not 100 per cent certain. New work done, wide rear, new tins with custom paint. Got some Vance and Hines big radius pipes. It has a stock cv carb but looks like the jets are bigger possibly a 185 main. Not certain about the others.
I had some issues with guy putting
it together. Custom paint in the wrong place and seat coverings g it. Front fender rivets rattled loose. Axel mounted rear licence plate broke off with vibrations.
He didnt clean out new fuel tanks and painting particles and masking tape left inside. He couldn't get my bike running properly and in his frustration to finish the work told me I needed an sns carb and a dyno cause my bike wont run properly the way it is. I took the bike and found the fuel tanks full of crap and the strainer blocked. He charged me for a carbie kit, new lines etc. When I was there with him the needle for the main jet was bent and he blamed everyone except himself and said it was always like that. He disconnected the voes and broke the plastic hose piece off the switch. He said voes is **** and it doesn't need it. I've researched voes since and found it is needed. Basically I just can't put it back in his hands and it has cost me so much.
Anyway after sorting the fuel system and carb issues I have my bike running again but I feel the timing advance isnt working properly now. The voes has been bypassed and the actual voes switch is broken by the mechanic. (I'm not taking my bike back there).
For my question what are my options. I am considering a new programmable ignition.
Do I need to fix the voes. Or can it be removed and the new ignition take care of the timing.
Thanks any help would be appreciated. I spent so much and my bike is a mess.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
The voes gives you some fuel economy.
When in part throttle, light load, cruising along, the vacuum is high, so it makes the voes switch close which tells the ignition module to be in the advanced curve for better fuel economy.
When you open up the throttle or are under a pretty good load, the vacuum goes low and the switch opens, when it does this, your ignition advance curve drops to a lower setting to help avoid engine ping.
Can get them for about 45 bucks new.
If you go without, you need to plug the vacuum line.
You can can run your stock ignition or an after market one without it. The stock ignition will remain in the lower advance curve without the switch unless you ground the purple voes wire (not recommended). Grounding the purple wire will put you in advance mode all the time and that is bad for your engine.
As mentioned, aftermarket ignitions let you switch things manually, but I would just replace the voes switch and call it a day.
Sorry for your your bad luck with the wrench, good idea to steer clear of him. YD
When in part throttle, light load, cruising along, the vacuum is high, so it makes the voes switch close which tells the ignition module to be in the advanced curve for better fuel economy.
When you open up the throttle or are under a pretty good load, the vacuum goes low and the switch opens, when it does this, your ignition advance curve drops to a lower setting to help avoid engine ping.
Can get them for about 45 bucks new.
If you go without, you need to plug the vacuum line.
You can can run your stock ignition or an after market one without it. The stock ignition will remain in the lower advance curve without the switch unless you ground the purple voes wire (not recommended). Grounding the purple wire will put you in advance mode all the time and that is bad for your engine.
As mentioned, aftermarket ignitions let you switch things manually, but I would just replace the voes switch and call it a day.
Sorry for your your bad luck with the wrench, good idea to steer clear of him. YD
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