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Been a while since I bought any dealer evo stuff but I did get a set of the MLS base gaskets from them. Older bikes I try to stay with Cometic, James are fairly local and I had an inside with them for a while and their stuff just isn't what it used to be, they still use a lot of the non metal silicon stuff.
As another said - properly warming up the bike before having the powertrain put out significant power will prevent the twist that will cause the base gaskets to weep. I put gasket conditioner (some kind of grey nonhardening rtv) on them liberally, and true to their word they haven't leaked or caused issues as of yet, despite me not warming it up quite to where it should be.
Never heard of "twist" but it is true that once thoroughly warmed up the Aluminum Heads and Cylinders have grown substantially... squeezing the Sandwich together between the Case and the Studs... resulting in the most effective "seal" Until warmed up, the seal is loose at best [relatively] and putting pressure onto the gaskets at this point, is bound to create a leaking situation..You can tell alot about the Rider by looking at the base gaskets...
Never heard of "twist" but it is true that once thoroughly warmed up the Aluminum Heads and Cylinders have grown substantially... squeezing the Sandwich together between the Case and the Studs... resulting in the most effective "seal" Until warmed up, the seal is loose at best [relatively] and putting pressure onto the gaskets at this point, is bound to create a leaking situation..You can tell alot about the Rider by looking at the base gaskets...
Not sure I can agree with that.
A friend of mine had his motor top end done at a local indy and the base gaskets seeped from day one after the rebuild.
A couple of years later he brought his bike over to my house and we did another top end due to a blown head gasket.
I used Cometic steel gaskets and they sealed up that motor very well.
Multi layer steel gaskets are a good fix, they have a "bead" stamped into the metal that applies constant pressure to the sealing surfaces. You want that constant pressure when the cylinders have "shrunk" in length when cold, and that bead will also compress when the cylinder has grown in length (hot). Also consider having the base of each cylinder machined flat (trued). This is the best you can do. YD
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