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'98 Ultra 42k miles. Very difficult, sometimes impssible to find neutral when riding. So did all new fluids yesterday and internal/cable clutch adjustments by the book. No metallics on any drain plugs. Went for a ride and problem is still there. Also have had clunk of sorts when upshifting. As I don't know past history, is new clutch kit in order?
Thanks. Ken
New clutch at 42K is unlikely, but then you have no idea how it was ridden from previous owner. Is the bike shifting normal into gear while going down the road? How about at stand still?
Hard finding neutral- one or several things can contribute to this: clutch adjustment, primary fluid level; loose primary chain; throw out bearing going bad
I changed my clutch from the 1994 style that takes a diaphragm spring tool up to the 1998 style with a ring of bolts. If the clutch drags and won't find neutral, it's a few ounces of oil too high. My old clutch liked 40 ounces of oil just fine. This one likes 32 ounces.
I played with the clutch rod adjustment, and the tighter end of spec seems to make neutral easier to find. Started with 3/4 turn out, went to 1/2. If you didn't roll the bike around in a circle checking the free play on the primary chain, you might have set it at a loose spot and ended up too tight.
- Loosen clutch cable adjuster.
- Loosen jam nut on clutch.
- Back out the clutch adjuster screw a few turns
- Make sure the clutch lever is as far away from the bar as it goes. The idea here is you want to ensure that the ball-and-ramp end of the cable is "pushing" on the little dog on the edge of the ramp.
- Turn the clutch adjuster screw in fairly hard. Harder than you think you should.
- Back the clutch adjuster screw out until it is fully loose again.
- Turn the clutch adjuster screw in until you just barely feel it touch.
- Back it out your preferred amount. IIRC, the book says 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. I don't use nearly that much. I use a somewhat proud1/4 turn.
- Re-adjust cable. I work off the housing on the lever. Work the lever a few times while simultaneously pulling on the cable sleeve. Look for the gap between the ferrule on the end of the cable sleeve and the clutch lever housing. I go for something between a penny and a nickle's width of gap.
Thanks, Omaha....manual doesn't mention that trick. Also plan to do fluid measurment to center of nut....damn hard to see whats goin on down there. About to jump on the problem again after coffee. Will get back to ya'll on this.
Don`t adjust the clutch with the intent of removing the clunk, or making it easier to find neutral. You can certainly get rid of the clunk and make it easy to find neutral, but the downside of this is the clutch may not fully engage when you release the lever...
Adjust it to the service manual procedure, and expect it to klunk, and don`t expect miracles when looking for neutral.
Put it in neutral just before you roll to a stop if you insist on being in neutral when you stop.
If your clutch has the spring plate in the middle of the clutch pack, the brass bushings could be going bad. Happened on my '97, started with hard to find neutral and clunky shifts, then finally got to the point, where it was very difficult to shift. Unfortunately the only way to check is to take the plates out of the basket and inspect it. Not a hard job, but pretty time consuming.
Ok, guys. Rechecked fluid level, chain tension, both good. Did another internal adjustment with Omaha's added tips and tricks. First time after adjustment still had complete lever slack. This time after adjustment had half lever. Closed it back up, adjusted lever, went for a ride, and now have to push past neutral for 2nd gear. Can hit neutral easily now whenever.
Omaha, you're a genius!!!! Thanks for all the input, guys. Still have clunk, but much less.
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