1998 evo electra glide classic
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From: md
1998 evo electra glide classic
I am still having a problem with my bike I went riding one day bike ran great parked it in the garage a few days later went out to go riding when I started in I was only getting spark on rear jug no fire to front jug. I put a new coil and a new set of spark plug wires on it but it didn't help so I put a new pickup in the nose cone that didn't help either. when I opened the nose cone the pickup was melted so I knew there was a problem there before I replaced it but none of this has helped. the coil plug should the middle wire have 12 volts on it I don't think I am getting that
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From: Ohio
The middle plug on the coil has to be getting 12v or neither cylinder will fire, the ECM sends grounds to each side of the coil to fire. You had a active code for front cylinder so it is present and a diagnostic direction to go, direction was offered with hands on checking the coil terminals a week ago identifying 12v and ground signals present from the ECM will cranking, did you do that?
You said all connectors were checked yet didn't know where the ECM was? any corrosion or loose terminal will throw EFI for a tail spin because it uses 5v signal references except sends a 12v signal to the coil so a test light can be used at the coil connector terminals.
No magic wand is available after swapping all the parts have failed, it requires manually checking connectors for corrosion, checking battery terminals, checking wires for rubbed spots and corrosion has set in or short to ground. The M&M is a behind times system but the 24 code is active so it is real and at this point a visual inspection or connector bodies or rubbed wires, a professional will find it with a simple ohm meter doing pin checks, if you follow the code present your only checking 1 wire from the coil to the ECM and the 3 from the cam sensor to ECM with a ohm meter.
Your module melting is common and usually the problem when the M&M system shuts off but since you replaced it just make sure your wiring is correct like mentioned, ECM's do fail but just a guess unless you do the diagnostic work and a expensive guess.
You said all connectors were checked yet didn't know where the ECM was? any corrosion or loose terminal will throw EFI for a tail spin because it uses 5v signal references except sends a 12v signal to the coil so a test light can be used at the coil connector terminals.
No magic wand is available after swapping all the parts have failed, it requires manually checking connectors for corrosion, checking battery terminals, checking wires for rubbed spots and corrosion has set in or short to ground. The M&M is a behind times system but the 24 code is active so it is real and at this point a visual inspection or connector bodies or rubbed wires, a professional will find it with a simple ohm meter doing pin checks, if you follow the code present your only checking 1 wire from the coil to the ECM and the 3 from the cam sensor to ECM with a ohm meter.
Your module melting is common and usually the problem when the M&M system shuts off but since you replaced it just make sure your wiring is correct like mentioned, ECM's do fail but just a guess unless you do the diagnostic work and a expensive guess.
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From: md
ok when I checked the voltage to middle pin yesterday I didn't get the voltage you said I need but still runs on back cylendar and you are correct I had checked every connection but the one on the ecm which I will so shortly
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From: md
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From:
Consider picking one thread or the other.
I would really like to hear that your motorcycle is operational but your responses to the large amount of diagnostic information (other thread) provided is most times rather brief, lacking detail, incomplete or missing.
Words like "checked" and "clean" are difficult to translate to actual action performed.
For example some folks look from 5 feet away and think that is a "check" but continuity could be compromised.
I once diagnosed a loose crank position sensor by striking frame with a rubber hammer to re-create the shut-off of motor over a bump because things "looked" OK.
You have a lot of precise information that has been provided from individuals with years of exposure.
At this point it would be up to you to follow-up or take printout of all information provided to someone for review.
It does not seem like something complex but your diagnostic process is difficult to follow.
Best of luck.
Link to other thread started with additional information:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...front-jug.html
If you use the search function tab at top of screen then you should be able to locate discussion by using your user name.
Creating multiple threads (conversations) for same problem may lead to confusion and will not assist others in the future.
If you are using a smart phone instead of real computer then following such a large volume of information can become a challenge.
I would really like to hear that your motorcycle is operational but your responses to the large amount of diagnostic information (other thread) provided is most times rather brief, lacking detail, incomplete or missing.
Words like "checked" and "clean" are difficult to translate to actual action performed.
For example some folks look from 5 feet away and think that is a "check" but continuity could be compromised.
I once diagnosed a loose crank position sensor by striking frame with a rubber hammer to re-create the shut-off of motor over a bump because things "looked" OK.
You have a lot of precise information that has been provided from individuals with years of exposure.
At this point it would be up to you to follow-up or take printout of all information provided to someone for review.
It does not seem like something complex but your diagnostic process is difficult to follow.
Best of luck.
Link to other thread started with additional information:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...front-jug.html
If you use the search function tab at top of screen then you should be able to locate discussion by using your user name.
Creating multiple threads (conversations) for same problem may lead to confusion and will not assist others in the future.
If you are using a smart phone instead of real computer then following such a large volume of information can become a challenge.
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2019
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From: md
ok the plug on the ecm looks clean but I am going to go get a new can of cleaner and clean it very good as I said the voltage in the middle pin to the coil is not 12 volt not sure why that is but I bet that is where my problem lays