You could be right. I would have thought SOME form of aluminum flecks at least would have come out when I drained the system if that was the case. You're not wrong there, and is made easier with the fact that I do not have to remove the front sprocket to do the job either. One step at a time though on my end.

I don't envision the bearing squealed like a stuck pig when it moved the first and second time because the aluminum broke though, and the lack of aluminum in the drain pan makes me hopeful of that, though, you're right, I'll be spending money on fancy tools to check instead of on other stuff which could be of better and long term benefits. Decisions...

Not gonna lie, your post is kind of a downer man. I had never seen the inside or taken one apart and never had anything go wrong to do any work to it other than swapping out the clutch acutation parts to move it to hydraulic unit. I said at the very beginning as much and that I am no expert in this transmission as I have no clue anything about it. Your post takes it further, and quite frankly, I'm not surprised it doesn't tell me to take it to an Indy because I'll just make it worse.

That being said, no better way to learn than from teachers and experts and from expensive mistakes (aka Alimony). Ensures you don't repeat them. Teachers are in short supply here sso that leaves you more experienced folks and expensive mistakes. Let's temper this with a bit of understanding that you can't see the bearing surface from the inside of the trans with the gearset in it, so my lack of psychic power of understanding that there was a lip there that I probably destroyed should be relatively understandable for a first time occurance. However, assuming someone has zero knowledge of basic things such as shafts and bearings is the kind of unpleasantries we don't need to be giving to one another here. Stupid pays for stupid's mistakes. I am gonna pay for mine and be damn sure I don't repeat it. Obviously I knew enough to search for the right tools to pull the shafts into the new bearings from George's, and so on. But again, I am no expert and stated such, hence my original post here soliciting input, not unpleasantries. Novice or not, I learn or I pay (and in some cases both haha).

Compelling case you make there. That sort of damage looks quite spicy. I don't imagine needle bearings enjoy side loading very much and the big main one appears to have a snap ring holding it in, though I imagine enough pressure and it fails in a big way as well...

 

Thanks for posting. Not really had to work on my 5-speed either or having a hydraulic clutch, so looking to learn. You think pulling the lever can put that much pressure to make the bearing move enough to break the lip? What about the primary side? Could the shift of the mainshaft be caused by over-tightening the clutch hub nut?

 

I don`t think telling you to take it to a mechanic is the right way to help you, just trying to caution you that following the manual and when something is not right, stop and ask for help, you are not afraid to get into this thing so I`m sure you can get it fixed and back on the road with a little guidance.

Pulling the clutch lever did not break the bearing retaining lip on the trap door...

Excess pressure pulling on the clutch during removal maybe...

Either way, it`s coming apart.

 

What I can tell you is that it took all my grip strength on two hands to move that bearing the first time it shifted. It SQUEEELED. When I did it again is when I noticed it shifted the whole shaft including the clutch basket, again accompanied by the squeal sound.
A cable clutch physically cant do this as the snapring that retains the actuators would have to break first and then the whole assembly would just fall apart. It is because the hydraulic one has so much travel before the seal is out of the housing, it makes the issue much more possible.
No, I dont believe it is physically possible to shift the shaft by tightening the clutch hub nut unless you use an impact that can break the snapring on the far side, then you could push it outward, but if youre just tightening it and your clutch basket is so over/wrongly sized it braces itself against the inner primary and pulls the shaft, I guess it would be possible, but thats monumental levels of screwup, even by my standards.
+1 to that. No primary chain means at worse, it inconveniences me an hour or so of time to verify. Time to suck it up and get it done.

 

I had forgotten about this -

- this video was great as it showed how to handle a inner bearing race that had walked into the mainshaft. The dude actually unbolts the mainshaft and smacks it inward with a hammer he says 3/16-1/4.

What I don't know is whether he replaced the main drive outer bearing because it's a DD6 and therefore different, or if he did it for posterity's sake. Either way, just an interesting note if one is short on time and parts and money and has to do the job the wrong way.

 

Any time the main drive gear is pressed out of the big ball bearing, the bearing should be replaced due to the cross load that is put on the bearing during the removal process.

The idea of hitting the mainshaft to move the inner race back into position looks like a slick idea, however, the impact goes right to the big ball bearing, and the retaining lip that keeps this bearing in place is very thin, and easy to break...