1998 Electra glide ultra classic fuel injected problem!
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh pa
1998 Electra glide ultra classic fuel injected problem!
day 07:35 PM
Hello all new to the Harley world!
i bought a 1998 Harley Electra glide ultra classic last year traded in my Honda shadow for it, well during my first long ride with the bike it kept shutting off on me while riding like it was starving for fuel....
i replaced the fuel pump and filter right after that. This year I just got back from my trip to Ohio and back about a 3 1/2 hour trip one way then back well my bike broke down on me about 30 times it took about 7 hours to limp it home. Here whats happening.. first I thought I may be sucking air in from the hoses in the tank so every 50 miles I stoped for fuel just to make sure I had a full tank that didnt seem it help at all, while cruising around 70 mph around 3000 rpm the check engine light comes on and the Rpms drop to 0 if Im lucky and I Catch it in time I can throttle up and keep her running but then 2 mins later it just Boggs completely out and I have no luck with it staying running, all lights stay on well one time I lost everything but 99% of the time its just the engine shuts off, I pull over shut the bike off,make sure all the needles are at bottom turn the bike back on and she fires up. Go down the road a couple miles and it happens a again.... Im so lost on what this could be... seems like it happens on the long rides about 70 miles it started and once it does it dont stop. please help sorry for the long drawn out rambling post typing this all up on my phone..
1998 Harley Electra glide ultra classic
fresh oil change
fresh oil primary change
fresh transmission oil change
has a power commander 5 on it
after market head lights
after market fuel pump installed last year
after market fuel filter installed same time
stock air filter
unknown what pipes I believe stock
Hello all new to the Harley world!
i bought a 1998 Harley Electra glide ultra classic last year traded in my Honda shadow for it, well during my first long ride with the bike it kept shutting off on me while riding like it was starving for fuel....
i replaced the fuel pump and filter right after that. This year I just got back from my trip to Ohio and back about a 3 1/2 hour trip one way then back well my bike broke down on me about 30 times it took about 7 hours to limp it home. Here whats happening.. first I thought I may be sucking air in from the hoses in the tank so every 50 miles I stoped for fuel just to make sure I had a full tank that didnt seem it help at all, while cruising around 70 mph around 3000 rpm the check engine light comes on and the Rpms drop to 0 if Im lucky and I Catch it in time I can throttle up and keep her running but then 2 mins later it just Boggs completely out and I have no luck with it staying running, all lights stay on well one time I lost everything but 99% of the time its just the engine shuts off, I pull over shut the bike off,make sure all the needles are at bottom turn the bike back on and she fires up. Go down the road a couple miles and it happens a again.... Im so lost on what this could be... seems like it happens on the long rides about 70 miles it started and once it does it dont stop. please help sorry for the long drawn out rambling post typing this all up on my phone..
1998 Harley Electra glide ultra classic
fresh oil change
fresh oil primary change
fresh transmission oil change
has a power commander 5 on it
after market head lights
after market fuel pump installed last year
after market fuel filter installed same time
stock air filter
unknown what pipes I believe stock
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,198
Likes: 3,087
From: NW AR
Pull the codes from the computer and see what it's biatching about. Probably one of the sensors, such as the crank position sensor down at the front, I believe, or one of the temp sensors. Other possibilities are the ignition system. I think that still has a separate ignition module and pickup in the cone.
Anyway, start with pulling the codes. I'm not an expert on the HD system, so google around how to do it. And the next purchase should be a factory (HD) shop manual.
Anyway, start with pulling the codes. I'm not an expert on the HD system, so google around how to do it. And the next purchase should be a factory (HD) shop manual.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh pa
Any idea how to pull the codes on a hd never had to on a bike yet is it the same as a car like a obd2 port or something?
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh pa
Pull the codes from the computer and see what it's biatching about. Probably one of the sensors, such as the crank position sensor down at the front, I believe, or one of the temp sensors. Other possibilities are the ignition system. I think that still has a separate ignition module and pickup in the cone.
Anyway, start with pulling the codes. I'm not an expert on the HD system, so google around how to do it. And the next purchase should be a factory (HD) shop manual.
Anyway, start with pulling the codes. I'm not an expert on the HD system, so google around how to do it. And the next purchase should be a factory (HD) shop manual.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 901
From: Texas
ETS on my '98 Ultra never shut down motor on the road.
Like everyone says...get the manual (ebay 80-100$), and pull the codes. Search this forum, or go to the fuel system forum here.
Like everyone says...get the manual (ebay 80-100$), and pull the codes. Search this forum, or go to the fuel system forum here.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
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From: Ohio
............ but lots of us have, and it doesn't always throw a code.
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From:
You must be using a smart phone and free typing.
Makes it rather difficult for me to follow.
I had to read it 3 times because i kept losing my place.
*From a distance it reads like the connector for CAM position sensor is loose.
Here is a list of common things for your year and model (TOURING FRAME).
Consider printing and placing in saddlebag
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-COMMON if you have a ROAD KING (fuel tank mounted speedometer)..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. There is now a cable harness from Drag Specialties to update to 1999 Speedometer with plug...NO cutting required.
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…As an emergency you can just disconnect idle control motor behind air filter when when idle control plunger is at rest...basically would have to hold throttle for warm-up.
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head trying to chase an intermittent cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley # 99483-98 .
Read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the Goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.
Again, print this list.
Print and place in saddlebag.
Most people say sure whatever..the mechanic will take care of it.
Even if you do not own a screwdriver you can still give list to a mechanic if you run into trouble.
The problem is that many mechanics rarely deal with EVO motors, less have worked on the M & M fuel injection and even less want to read the one chapter in the service book.
Makes it rather difficult for me to follow.
I had to read it 3 times because i kept losing my place.
*From a distance it reads like the connector for CAM position sensor is loose.
Here is a list of common things for your year and model (TOURING FRAME).
Consider printing and placing in saddlebag
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-COMMON if you have a ROAD KING (fuel tank mounted speedometer)..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. There is now a cable harness from Drag Specialties to update to 1999 Speedometer with plug...NO cutting required.
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…As an emergency you can just disconnect idle control motor behind air filter when when idle control plunger is at rest...basically would have to hold throttle for warm-up.
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head trying to chase an intermittent cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley # 99483-98 .
Read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the Goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.
Again, print this list.
Print and place in saddlebag.
Most people say sure whatever..the mechanic will take care of it.
Even if you do not own a screwdriver you can still give list to a mechanic if you run into trouble.
The problem is that many mechanics rarely deal with EVO motors, less have worked on the M & M fuel injection and even less want to read the one chapter in the service book.