Have '98 Ultra and got tired of worrying with the o-ring leaking problem...not the quick-connect, but the one at the very bottom of the nut. Pics will show which one.

Materials needed: 2 - 90 degee brass elbows 1/8 npt male - 1/8 npt female. 2 - brass 1/8 npt male to 1/4" barb end. 1- 1/4" to 1/4" barb union. 5 or 6 hose clamps. About a foot of 5/16" id fuel line. 1/8 tapered pipe tap. Small tube loctite PST 592 thread sealant @autozone.

Procedure: #1 - drain gas tank. #2 - Unscrew both fuel line nuts from tank. #3 - Cut fuel lines from compression sleeves right up against the sleeve, so you have as much original fuel line left as possible. You are commited at this point! #4 - Separate tank nuts from 90 degree bottom fittings. One came off just prying with a screwdriver, the other I had to pry apart as far as possible and then knock out thru the nut flare end with a phillips screwdriver (pics). You won't hurt anthing on these fuel fitting...they are high quality stainless steel. #5- turn nut over. Hole just happens to be exact size for 1/8 pipe tap. Your male thread end of the 90 degree brass elbow will thread into here. Thread in only 5 turns with the tap...then check that elbow end will only hand tighten about halfway down. Run the tap in too far and you won't have enough threads left to tighten down in tank nut. #6- Clean tapped nuts with gas and blow out...smallest debris will clog injectors. Pookie with thread sealant and thread back nut into tank and tighten.Pookie male thread of elbow and tighten into tapped tank nut hole. Pookie and tighten thread end of barb fitting into female end of elbow. Slip hose clamp on cut end of fuel line and insert into barb end and tighten. This is a short hose, you'll have to finagle this one in. Adjusting barb angle on the hose helps.Rotate fuel rail fitting to gain hose. Mine was on engine stabilizer bkt. so I sleeved an old piece of heater hose on the line where it touched.
#7 - Same thing with the front tank nut, with the addition of a fuel line splice for the hose connection to be long enough. Pay attention where the return line going back to the fuel rail is so it's not rubbing on the horn bracket. Use the 1/4" barb union for the splice. Let sit 24 hrs.for thread sealant cure.







That's it! BTW... do back fitting first. Ken

 

Nice job. Got any miles on it yet?

 

No, Beem, not yet. Parts got in for wife"s 66 Mustang, so guess what comes first? Figuring out cover for new lines ... maybe split wire loom? Already pressurized, no leaks. Was worried about fuel rail leaks since they got moved around, but still dry. Will go put 200 or so on it to test after honey-do's are done and get every tool I own picked up. Ken

 

Nice job! Let us know how it works after awhile.

 

Will do. Just got tired of the drip-on drip-off and worrying about it. This should make tank end trouble free . Ken

 

350 miles since fix, no problem with any leaks. Injector lines dry. Everything dry.

Have new vibration at 2500rpm up. Think related to upper cylinder stabilizer link, loosened up to get horn bkt. out of the way. Gonna pull AC cover tomorrow and check both ends. Rubber in links looked good. Not much in manual about this. Ken

 

4,000+ miles on fix...no leaks. Ken

 

7000 miles on fix. No problems.

 

11,500 miles on fix, no problems. Ken

 

Now don't go getting cocky and jinx yourself.

Lady luck doesn't like being smacked on the ***.


carl