Transmission won't go into neutral...
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 304
Likes: 9
From: CT
Thanks all for the feedback.
With regards to clutch adjustment - as stated in the OP, this has already been done to factory service manual spec. (Not sure why that when I say I adjusted the clutch to spec it's assumed that I only did the cable...)
The issue existed before I did the primary fliud service, and continues now as well. I did try the "blip the throttle" method, and that does work. So at least I can get the bike into neutral at a stop now. But I would like to address what's actually causing the problem. So I'll continue to diagnose.
The primary chain being too tight sounds like a pretty likely culprit - so I'll check that next. Thanks!
With regards to clutch adjustment - as stated in the OP, this has already been done to factory service manual spec. (Not sure why that when I say I adjusted the clutch to spec it's assumed that I only did the cable...)
The issue existed before I did the primary fliud service, and continues now as well. I did try the "blip the throttle" method, and that does work. So at least I can get the bike into neutral at a stop now. But I would like to address what's actually causing the problem. So I'll continue to diagnose.
The primary chain being too tight sounds like a pretty likely culprit - so I'll check that next. Thanks!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,640
From: Poolville
Check the shift pawl adjustment it could be another likely candidate... Has the bike sat for any period of long time cause sometimes from sitting the steels will rust a little creating less separation for the friction plates.. I only say that because you said it's hard shifting out of first..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 4, 2019 at 10:28 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
I had an issue similar years ago.....I just remembered
The clutch plates were digging into the clutch hub.....therefore the plates were sticking. I couldnt find neutral and the bike crept forward with clutch pulled in.
That was 75,000 miles or so.....and abuse
The clutch plates were digging into the clutch hub.....therefore the plates were sticking. I couldnt find neutral and the bike crept forward with clutch pulled in.
That was 75,000 miles or so.....and abuse
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 166
Likes: 13
From: Beaufort, NC
If you are running 20w50 dino in the primary, try some 10w40 synthetic motorcycle oil instead... I've been surprised that a tough to find neutral cares about oil weight, but it definitely makes a difference on my bike. The other that seems to help, is to fully collapse the clutch cable, and use a wrench on the lock nut to loosen it all the way, and a wrench on the barrel adjuster to collapse it all the way. Just as tight as you go with fingers is still a 1/4 turn or more with a wrench. That's a decent amount of adjustment at the clutch hub pushrod/lock nut, and gives you a bit more throw at the hub.
Finger tight collapsed on the clutch cable I always had a bit of creep in first gear at lights and a bang going into 1st. Totally collapsed, wrench tight... neutral is easy and 1st gear from neutral a lot less noisy.
Finger tight collapsed on the clutch cable I always had a bit of creep in first gear at lights and a bang going into 1st. Totally collapsed, wrench tight... neutral is easy and 1st gear from neutral a lot less noisy.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,649
Likes: 430
From: MASS_hole
Occasionally, very seldom in my case. I will loosen the adjusting hex nut all the way out and then tighten it down snug. I do this a fee times sought of like Im chasing it just to loosen up debris or gunk that might cause a clearance issue. Good precaution and does help
Then to the actual adjustment... I usually turn the adjuster hex screw in with finger is till it taps. And lock it there.
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Stage I
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Letohatchee, Alabama
My 1996 Road King has been experiencing shifting to neutral while running problems for years. Somebody in the thread suggested to "burp" the throttle by giving it a little rev and shifting toward neutral at the same time. I have been doing it for about a month now and it has never failed to work. For whatever reason (magic, gremlins, etc.) that it requires this - the "little burp" works for my bike. Thanks for the information.
