Originally Posted by dgwv

I had an engine that was loosing the chrome off the cam, lifters, and the bearing was black, and I found it had that goo running out of the cam cover. 33k

Originally Posted by im

That is the CAM sensor and reads as part # 32404-96 per picture.
Did not notice year or model but you are in the EVO forum and it appears to be an EVO motor.
The Original Factory units had a beige sealant while the replacement harley unit has a black sealant.
The original melts as shown sometimes after several years and this commonly presents with hard starting.
Lots of cranking, then more cranking, then more cranking....then you take a break for a minute or two and a light touch of starter button allows motor to come to life.
Your bike is most likely carb since the TWO screws are in the adjustment slots.
The fuel injected bikes had a fixed timing from factory in the round screw/post holes instead of adjustable slots.
There was an issue with aftermarket CAM sensors not being compatible with stock cup for EFI but your bike appears to be carb. so that should not be a concern.
The original and replacement harley part has 3 wires because the tip over sensor is part of the sensor...keep that in mind when looking for a replacement sensor.
The tip over sensor shuts motor off if bike falls on its side.
The orientation of pictures makes it a little difficult to decipher but it looks like something is different at outside of exit hole for wire at bottom of cone.
Might require some cut hex bits and small wrench to loosen bracket that might be holding wire on bottom outside of cone due to clearance.
If replacing with a stock part then just scribe "cone" at triangle to the left of wires then match triangle on new replacement factory part to mark you made on "cone".
Factory part is about $190 and you need two blind rivets or a new cover.
General tools should be fine along with some cut allen/hex pieces for bolts due to clearance.
I would not be surprised if a dealer might want a diagnostic fee ,+ 1.5 hours labor + hand washing/service fee of 10% +tax.
An independent might suggest a simple cost effective after market unit with no tip over sensor (loss of safety feature) and save you some money on labor.
It is not a difficult job and no fluids will be leaked.
The most difficult part would be to make sure that sensor wires are properly situated in sensor connector to bike harness connector.
There are only 3 wires.
The sensor comes without deutsch connector installed since you need to feed it through hole on cone first so that is why some folks have hardwired connectors since they do not want to lie on their back to decipher the deutsch connector.
But the triangle 3 wire connector is no big deal to address in factory style if you pay attention and are using a factory unit.

Originally Posted by dgwv

I had an engine that was loosing the chrome off the cam, lifters, and the bearing was black, and I found it had that goo running out of the cam cover. 33k

Originally Posted by barneyboy

And in the OP's case, 21 years, and suddenly it starts melting. I would dig deeper.

Originally Posted by ClifWideGlide

yeah I’m thinking the same thing so this might become a winter project and I remove the cam for inspection and replacement.

Originally Posted by ClifWideGlide

Ok question for all you’ll that have done cam changes. Can I remove the chrome nose cone from the engine case without removing the push rods and lifters? I just want to inspect the cam and area at this time but may just replace it while apart. I just don’t want to replace just the cam sensor and then have another problem in a month or two. Will I have a problem reinstalling the nose cone with the push rods and lifters still in place if I find nothing wrong or damaged? Thanks again for all the help!

Originally Posted by ClifWideGlide

Ok question for all you’ll that have done cam changes. Can I remove the chrome nose cone from the engine case without removing the push rods and lifters? I just want to inspect the cam and area at this time but may just replace it while apart. I just don’t want to replace just the cam sensor and then have another problem in a month or two. Will I have a problem reinstalling the nose cone with the push rods and lifters still in place if I find nothing wrong or damaged? Thanks again for all the help!

Originally Posted by im

No, As explained earlier.
The line-up of parts makes it impossible.
Since the bike had rivets,original CAM sensor and beige goo it reads like a stock unit.
It would seem like your unit is stock but you can also look for marks on bolts for cone in that area.
As suggested back a few posts the CAM sensor plate could have been reached by using some cut allen/hex wrenches to access bolts without removal of exhaust.
Although removing the exhaust does make access more straight forward.
If you decide on changing bearing then might as well start thinking about other stuff like gaskets, lifters, new cam and then make the decision of adjustable push rods or original solid.
It really depends on your pockets, skill set and how much you want to get into the bike.
A Cam sensor and be done or add about $500 USA dollars for parts like rocker gaskets/ lifter block gaskets/cone gaskets, new lifters, new cam, new bearing, seal, adjustable push rods, some misc items and a carb adjustment.

Originally Posted by ClifWideGlide

yes the bike is stock and I’m the original owner/purchaser. The exhaust had to be removed because I have the screaming eagle torque brace which has the cam sensor wires behind it. And yes, I am considering a cam change. What has me worried from a few post back is what caused the cam sensor to melt? Was the cam bearing or cam bushing oil seal in the nose cone damaged from the heat also. At this point from what I’ve read I’m really leaning to do the cam change. The recent thread on the EV13 install has me wanting more power over my stock cam!