1990 FLHS Swingarm Bushing Replacement
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 156
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From: Adirondacks
1990 FLHS Swingarm Bushing Replacement
I'm going to replace the final drive belt and final drive pulley, and rebuild the swingarm/replace the cleve blocks in my FLHS with 85,000 miles. I'm not going to do the entire 2007+ swingarm upgrade and will probably add a Tru Track soon after when funds become available. I've spent a couple of hours reading all that's available concerning replacement of the cleve blocks including posts on Sto-Bo, CCE, Tru Track bushings, and whatever else I could find. A few questions:
1. Anyone have any real experience comparing the ride of any two or more of the above? Sta-Bo is the clear winner on price.
2. Anyone install any of the cleve block replacements and end up disappointed with the results in their choice? Conversely, anyone absolutely sold on your choice as the exceptional upgrade?
3. Any reason not to lathe turn a set of bushings out of bronze or aircraft grade aluminum and save a bunch of money? What clearance would be right for the fit of swingarm shaft and inner bushing? How about outer bushing to inner swingarm?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
1. Anyone have any real experience comparing the ride of any two or more of the above? Sta-Bo is the clear winner on price.
2. Anyone install any of the cleve block replacements and end up disappointed with the results in their choice? Conversely, anyone absolutely sold on your choice as the exceptional upgrade?
3. Any reason not to lathe turn a set of bushings out of bronze or aircraft grade aluminum and save a bunch of money? What clearance would be right for the fit of swingarm shaft and inner bushing? How about outer bushing to inner swingarm?
Thanks for your help.
Frank
No experience A-B-ing them to any of the others. They seem to be working fine.
On your question of machine clearance, my observation is that the OEM swingarm is made with a welded on piece of tubing for the pivot. It's not precision machined at all. It's just a hunk of tubing, probably a bit distorted by when it was all welded together. You'll probably find yours is inconsistent diameter, not all that round, etc. At least that's how mine was.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2009
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3. Any reason not to lathe turn a set of bushings out of bronze or aircraft grade aluminum and save a bunch of money? What clearance would be right for the fit of swingarm shaft and inner bushing? How about outer bushing to inner swingarm?
I don't have a bagger upgrade kit at the moment, just a stock swingarm sized Paughco Cleve block kit I bought to copy before installing (I have more than one bike) but the way to get industry standard info on classes of fits is from Machinery's Handbook (not the Pocket Companion, useful but don't buy one by mistake) which you probably have and need if you don't. Old editions are fine since fit classes are standard.
Then you can turn to match your swingarm (which certainly is just a hunk of tubing) and axle (I'd lightly clean up the bore with a flap wheel and polish the pivot axle if needed). Custom fit parts can fit closer than one-size-fits-all versions.
http://www.nashua.edu/paradisem1/Mac.../27_Dim_04.pdf Page down as required for running and sliding fits.
You could offset turn (or turn then bore the hole eccentric on a drill press or mill if you don't have a four jaw chuck) STA-BO equivalents or better out of whatever you like too. I've not fondled any to guess a match but UHMW and other modern plastics aren't expensive and your local machine shop likely has scraps or you can order online.
Check your messages.
Last edited by monckywrench; Nov 5, 2019 at 04:59 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
I have a True-Track bushing kit on my 1990 FLHS, installed around 2008. The bushes are bronze. Just as the old cleve blocks were a commercial item, so also are the later spec spherical bushings. I would be happy to use them as an alternative to what I currently have. I have also used CCE products, which is another worthy alternative.
1. Haven't tried them, as there are other solutions,
2. No!
3. No. But replace the old axle. I had to 'persuade' mine to come out of it's cosy home and it wasn't in any fit state to be reused.
4. Buy that T-T stabiliser kit for a serious improvement in stability and ride quality.
1. Haven't tried them, as there are other solutions,
2. No!
3. No. But replace the old axle. I had to 'persuade' mine to come out of it's cosy home and it wasn't in any fit state to be reused.
4. Buy that T-T stabiliser kit for a serious improvement in stability and ride quality.
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