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Alright guys, I need some advice here; I bought this FXR for cheap and was planning a full build but instead I gave it to my son. The first issue we have is the old Bubs pipe was held on by the head bolts, all the bracket bolts to the trans are either sheared off or the threads are just gone. I don't know what to do. I can either drill and attempt to use and easy-out or drill and rethread them. Any recommendations without pulling the trans and getting it on a work table?
The guy who owned this thing had to be a tweaker.
With bassani bracket I'll fabricate to fit the Bubs pipe
Stripped? a helicoil is fine in this application
broken off?? left hand drill bit for starters.. it may just screw itself out.. or having Not had much luck with ez-outs... just keep drilling bigger [with left hand bit] till it either comes out... or .... rethread... or...another helicoil!!!
Ensure that No Part of the exhaust hanger/system. is mounted to frame...
Stripped? a helicoil is fine in this application
broken off?? left hand drill bit for starters.. it may just screw itself out.. or having Not had much luck with ez-outs... just keep drilling bigger [with left hand bit] till it either comes out... or .... rethread... or...another helicoil!!!
Ensure that No Part of the exhaust hanger/system. is mounted to frame...
Just past the door you can see a bolt is sheared off. The other hole is missing threads altogether. I'm not good at these types of fixes, if it were me I'd call Baker but this is a kid on a budget. I've never used a left hand bit, I'll check it out on youtube. Snap-on will be here around 11:00 anyway so I'll ask what they have on the truck.
Update: I got a handful of snap-on left handed drill bits along with a full set of threading tools (Free, Snap-On guy owes me) , so this is my first obstacle. I can't get the left hand drill bit in straight with the side cover and door bolts for clutch actuator in place.
Looks to me like the guy who owned this before stripped out the threads, I can helicoil a set of new ones but I'm not sure of the original bolt size. I'm assuming it's (4) 5/16x18x1-1/2" and (2) 1/4x20x1.25" for the top.
Just to remove the actuator door I got to remove the torque arm, pegs and brake pedal.
Another thing that's pissing me off is that I used to be able to pull apart a bike on the side of the road 30 years ago, I've raced Pro-Gas and TF in AHDRA..... In other words, i've done more wrenching in my life than I can remember but age seems to be setting in. This should be a no brainer but it's killing me.
If I remove the clutch actuator door is there pressure behind it? Do I need to open the primary and release the pressure plates?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Last edited by Oldskewl; Dec 11, 2019 at 11:48 AM.
.............
If I remove the clutch actuator door is there pressure behind it? Do I need to open the primary and release the pressure plates?........
Not a problem. Just back off the cable adjustment and it's all pretty simple. Nothing to fear
Yeah, most left hand drill bits are rather short. I have full confidence "you got this" ........
Looks like you pretty much have everything out of the way to remove the clutch release cover. Five more bolts and everything should come off with it.. With the bike on the kickstand you shouldn't get too much fluid out the trans but put a pan under it anyways. By removing the cover It'll give you all the clearance you need and while you're in there you might want to think of doing a throwout bearing just for the hell of it.. good insurance..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 11, 2019 at 11:58 AM.
Not a problem. Just back off the cable adjustment and it's all pretty simple. Nothing to fear
Yeah, most left hand drill bits are rather short. I have full confidence "you got this" ........
sigh...I appreciate that, you got more confidence in me than I do. You get one shot at this and that's it. yea, that clutch door has got to come off. Bike is on a lift outside my shop office so I got outside every hour and look when I should be wrenching.
Once you remove the clutch door, you will realize it is less complicated than you think.
Just go slow and think things thru before tackling the problem with the broken bolts. Consider a piece of plate steel with holes drilled in it to serve as a drill guide for drilling the broken bolts. The thicker the plate steel the better. The steel plate can be bolted in place using two elongated holes (for alignment of the actual drill guide hole) and bolted in place to the holes that have good threads, then the drill guide hole in the steel plate is the only one that will need to be in the correct or exact location for the "bad" hole or in other words the hole you are drilling out. Hope that makes sense, but it will help keep the bit from drifting.
Sharp (new) drill bits, cutting oil, and going slow are whats needed here. YD
Just past the door you can see a bolt is sheared off. The other hole is missing threads altogether. I'm not good at these types of fixes, if it were me I'd call Baker but this is a kid on a budget. I've never used a left hand bit, I'll check it out on youtube. Snap-on will be here around 11:00 anyway so I'll ask what they have on the truck.
Thank you
Think that's a alignment dowel pin not a sheared bolt your looking at at the 9 o'clock position, do not try to drill that, it'll just ruin the bit.
As race said helicoils are fine for those locations , I've done a bunch of them on tranny cases.
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FXRS Trans bolt issues.
