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Is it possible Cometic sent me something wrong, or
On the 3 sets of 4 o rings, I put the large one on the bottom, medium in the middle and small up top. Did I muck something up.
Fat one goes on top, skinny (and larger ID) on the bottom, medium in the middle. And some use a metal washer/spacer under the bottom o-ring, in the tappet guide bore.
Is it possible Cometic sent me something wrong, or On the 3 sets of 4 o rings, I put the large one on the bottom, medium in the middle and small up top. Did I muck something up.
Yep.
If you're still coming by tomorrow I can show you and if you need I've got extra o-rings.
Originally Posted by t150vej
Fat one goes on top, skinny (and larger ID) on the bottom, medium in the middle. And some use a metal washer/spacer under the bottom o-ring, in the tappet guide bore.
Yep.
If you're still coming by tomorrow I can show you and if you need I've got extra o-rings.
Didn't see this post till now. Last night I was eyeballing the different O ring packages and the one from S & S looked good with the plump smaller dia. O ring that Cometic hosed me on so I went ahead and ordered.
I do have adjustable push rods. Any special secrets to keep them from going south on me when I re tighten.
I'll pull apart the the leaky one first, lay it out and shoot a pic.
Never did get a pic of that sissy bar you have. Supposed to be close to 80 today, good day for a ride in the Hill Country.
With the Cometic gasket sets the tan o-ring is up top..
Probably the cheapest way out at this point it's adjustable pushrods. Time is money and if you ever want to make a cam or lifter change..... Easy peasy...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Mar 1, 2020 at 06:32 AM.
I do have adjustable push rods. Any special secrets to keep them from going south on me when I re tighten.
I don't know if there's any secret for keeping PRs tight, and you shouldn't have any worries if you tighten them well. One technique that I've found helpful is to put two adjustable wrenches together like you are holding a plier in your hand, and squeeze them together as you lock the nut down. Make sure you have good wrenches as the nut can be easily rounded if you go hard at it. If you are careful, you will have no problems.
I don't know if there's any secret for keeping PRs tight, and you shouldn't have any worries if you tighten them well. One technique that I've found helpful is to put two adjustable wrenches together like you are holding a plier in your hand, and squeeze them together as you lock the nut down. Make sure you have good wrenches as the nut can be easily rounded if you go hard at it. If you are careful, you will have no problems.
You are correct about the scissors effect.. However I use 3, 7/16" wrenches so I don't change my adjustment as I'm tightening it down. Only because one more flat at .142" preload can mess you up just a little bit too much...
You are correct about the scissors effect.. However I use 3, 7/16" wrenches so I don't change my adjustment as I'm tightening it down. Only because one more flat at .142" preload can mess you up just a little bit too much...
That's a good method. Marking a flat on the PR helps, and or moving over one flat, then tightening it down would get you back to the correct position too. I don't quite pre-load my lifters as much as you do. When I ran the Wood 6 cam, the recommended pre-load was at .142. The current slow-leakdown lifters I have and running a EV-13 cam, I'm good at .066-.073 recommended pre-load.
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