Lot of unknowns on this bike. When I tore down, I put every common component in a double sealed, labeled freezer/sandwich bag, (pushrod covers, o rings, tubes, springs, washers) each in their own bag, The push rod itself was labeled on where on the engine it was. There was no bottom .007 washer when I pulled and the lifter blocks have a wide (easily 1/8") shelf where the bottom o rings sits, but just to be safe, I'm going to order some washers and if I see so much as a sign of seepage I'll pop them on along with the new o rings I already ordered just for peace of mind.

 

I have a 5 gallon bucket full of chrome odds and ends not going back on the bike. I'll bring them with me and we can do some horse trading.

I'm not crazy about the Kury chrome. While the actual metal does it's job the chrome is crap. Flakes,

Unless I can find something better out there in the next week, I'll probably get them and if the chrome craps out I have a sandblaster and have been eyeballing a powder coating system for small stuff. I'll leave the bigger stuff to the pros.

 

Sounds good.

 

1. As you stated, it's best to go ahead and put in the tappet block washer to prevent a possible oil leak in the future.

2. This may not be an issue, but from what you wrote, it leads me to believe that you only have your PRs at "zero lash" adjustment. This should be the starting point of your PR adjustment. The numbers we were referring to are the pre-load of the lifters. Your lifters have .200" travel built in them. Normally people pre-load them to .100", so that leaves another .100" to play with.

3. It's important to figure our what your PRs TPI (threads per inch) is, in order to adjust them correctly. Lots of ways to do this. A simple way is to lay a ruler against your PRs threads, and count how many threads in one inch. Once you find what your TPI is, then you will know how many turns or flats it takes from zero lash to get to .100 or whatever desired pre-load.

If you are doing all this already, then nevermind, and good luck.

 

For arguments sake, let's say I have 10 threads per inch. If I wanted to get to .100 after zero lash that would mean 1 full thread to tighten the push rod into the lifter. yes ?

Would they still be able to spin with a little effort when both valves are totally off the cams.

 

After the lifter pumps down you should be able to spin the pushrods because the only pressure now is the spring in the lifter.

 

These look like the same exact ones I bought to use for passenger footboards my '96 Heritage. But mine came with two more parts than are shown in your pic.

I ordered them from J&P, they came in a J&P-labeled box with no mention of Kuryakyn on the box or on the parts or on the instructions. So I don't know who made them, but the box does say "Made in Taiwan".

These mount to my bike with only a single bolt, and I still need to figure out some way to keep them from rotating if my passenger puts any weight on either the front or back ends of these. So I still don't have them installed yet. But I'll come up with something one of these days...

 

Honestly I don't see a single bolt mount for the floor boards holding up to well.. Especially for a passenger. You know she's going to stand up on them to get off your bike..

 

You're exactly right. Especially my height-challenged wife...

In another recent thread, TexasHillCountry posted a picture showing how the passenger floorboards he installed on his '95 Heritage have a bracket that uses the swingarm bolt to stop the floorboards from pivoting. I'm pretty sure I can weld a similar bracket to the floorboards I bought.

One nice feature of these floorboards is that you can adjust them up or down, forward or backward, a few inches each way. So you can get them the right height and in the right position to match the passenger.

 

It's always tough for a passenger on the softails. My wife couldn't ride that long cause she would have hip pain so I did a couple things that so she could extend her legs a little bit still used the pegs. I made a triangular plate (mount) and attached it to the old mount and swing arm pivot to move it up and forward.. Huge difference... I also fabricated an offset backrest (sissy bar) 1 inch to give her more let room.. Out rides last a lot longer now cause she's more comfortable..