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Well I have it all cleaned up, just have to get the races out to fully inspect. What all is needed when reinstalling the bearings. I want to make sure I'm not missing any spacers or anything and I know I need to buy new shims. Also how far in should the new races go in? This is my first time dealing with taper roller wheel bearings. Thanks!
Well I have it all cleaned up, just have to get the races out to fully inspect. What all is needed when reinstalling the bearings. I want to make sure I'm not missing any spacers or anything and I know I need to buy new shims. Also how far in should the new races go in? This is my first time dealing with taper roller wheel bearings. Thanks!
If you don't have the right tools to set end play and remove and install the races I'd highly suggest you take it to a shop and let them do it.
Buying all the stuff you need is cost prohibitive if you're only doing one wheel.
I guess I don't see the problem. The only area that carries any load is the part where the races press into the hub.
My hunch is somewhere along the line someone replaced the races and made a hash of things getting the old ones out. Also looks like some witness marks from some sloppy seal removals along the way as well.
Always comes down to budget. If you're trying to get this bike on the road for cheap, and if you pull the current races and things look good underneath them, I don't see any reason not to run it. But if you don't mind spending the $$$, there are certainly better looking wheels out there.
assuming the Spacer is Correct...
Originally Posted by t150vej
I'm curious what the bearing spacer looked like, or more to the point, was there even one in there?
Tomorrow I'm going to clean up the spacers and everything really good and take pics so that i can get some advice on making sure everything is good to go. As far as buying the bearing removal tool. It may be very well worth the investment as I go through plenty of bikes and enjoy wrenching the, just havent done much bearing work.
I would destroy that wheel and get rid of it. There is a crack at 9 o'clock second photo. If the race has been broken by being pushed out I would guess the aluminum behind it is compromised as well. It's been stressed by a tard. Wheels are not expensive.
I invested in wheel tools but write off all my tools as a business expense and I like to do as much as my work as I can.
I would destroy that wheel and get rid of it. There is a crack at 9 o'clock second photo. If the race has been broken by being pushed out I would guess the aluminum behind it is compromised as well. It's been stressed by a tard. Wheels are not expensive.
I invested in wheel tools but write off all my tools as a business expense and I like to do as much as my work as I can.
He won't know if that wheel is compromised until the race is removed.
Those are not cracks in the structure of the wheel...those are where the aluminum was "smeared" by the spacer when the bearing failed..I would grind those off so a crack can't start there...
If the wheel passes a dye crack check after the races are removed...I would run it with no worries...
If a welder is obtainable, mig preferable, you weld a bead around the face of the race and it falls out after cooling down. You can then use the old race to fully seat the new race because it won't hang in the bore because it smaller now.
Like others are saying, nothing messed up in the sleeve area
Last edited by 1997bagger; Mar 6, 2020 at 08:04 PM.
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