Rocker box leak
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 820
From: Moneta, Virginia
Rocker box leak
Ive developed a small oil leak. It appears to be coming from between the seams in the rocker box covers. It has done it twice, both times following an extended warm up time before riding.
Yesterday I warmed her up for maybe 10 minutes, drove 15 miles and stopped for gas... no leak.
I stopped again after about 30 miles from fill up and I had about eight gallons of oil spewed on the inside of my right leg, the side of the seat and the side cover and saddle bag lid. Okay maybe it was only 1/4 teaspoon of oil!
I rode it once in between the two oil incidents, without an extended warm up... but I putted really easy until she came up to temp. Rode about 100 miles with one stop at about 45 miles... no oil spewing.
Its not coming from the air cleaner, thats clean as can be. It appears to be from the rear cylinder, right rear corner of the chrome valve cover.
Can I, should I, tighten the valve cover fasteners a bit beyond the recommended torque value? I replaced these several years back with polished SS fasteners with the thin copper washers under a SS washer, at the time I believe the spec called for a bit more or a bit less torque than the service manual calls for.
99k miles first leak shes sprung!
Yesterday I warmed her up for maybe 10 minutes, drove 15 miles and stopped for gas... no leak.
I stopped again after about 30 miles from fill up and I had about eight gallons of oil spewed on the inside of my right leg, the side of the seat and the side cover and saddle bag lid. Okay maybe it was only 1/4 teaspoon of oil!
I rode it once in between the two oil incidents, without an extended warm up... but I putted really easy until she came up to temp. Rode about 100 miles with one stop at about 45 miles... no oil spewing.
Its not coming from the air cleaner, thats clean as can be. It appears to be from the rear cylinder, right rear corner of the chrome valve cover.
Can I, should I, tighten the valve cover fasteners a bit beyond the recommended torque value? I replaced these several years back with polished SS fasteners with the thin copper washers under a SS washer, at the time I believe the spec called for a bit more or a bit less torque than the service manual calls for.
99k miles first leak shes sprung!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,004
Likes: 7,539
From: Poolville
I would replace the gaskets and also do the umbrella valves.. Honestly I've never tried to properly torque the screws.. I've been wrenching most of my life so I get them to where they are tight but not stretching the threads...
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,374
Likes: 2,570
From: NC USA
I'd check that one screw closely. It may be that screw leaking and looks like it's at the seam - seen that a lot. The way the air moves over/around these engines will fool you with cover leaks.
I've always had best luck with the soft thick fiber washers (oem) under thick flat washers. As as far as torque - when the cover screws are drawn down evenly, 1/4 turn at a time, the cover will bottom out and you will feel screw simply "stop." At that point there's no need going any further. OEM rubbers behave that way very consistently. Most aftermarket rubbers are a tick thicker and harder which makes it more difficult to "feel" the stopping point.
So check your screw(s) first. If they are dry and snug, go with replacing the rubbers next.
I've always had best luck with the soft thick fiber washers (oem) under thick flat washers. As as far as torque - when the cover screws are drawn down evenly, 1/4 turn at a time, the cover will bottom out and you will feel screw simply "stop." At that point there's no need going any further. OEM rubbers behave that way very consistently. Most aftermarket rubbers are a tick thicker and harder which makes it more difficult to "feel" the stopping point.
So check your screw(s) first. If they are dry and snug, go with replacing the rubbers next.
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