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We switched the ultima ignition for a crane hi4 and same result. The crane also shows spark. Doesnt look ignition based either at this point. Seems like we will have to open the motor up to see whats going on inside. Checked compression again and it showed a solid 120 on both cylinders. I would imagine if there was a timing problem with the cam then we wouldnt get proper compression. Will have to tear down at least the rockers pushrods and cam chest pieces again. And if that does not yield anything maybe go a few steps further to check the heads valves rings etc. Seems like this is a dead end. My one last attempt will be to take my new battery I have on my twin cam dyna and try to start it up before I begin the tear down process - maybe the battery on it isnt providing the juice need to turn it over fast enough. We also dont have a regulator circuit on the bike and if the battery was bad that could explain why it died after 10s or so. Ha dunno - think I am out of ideas and so dont want to open this can of worms any further lol. Will post back if there is a miracle :-)
For sure hook up a known good battery and see what's what before getting into the motor.
Here's a longshot: sheared/missing key on the pinion gear. Might explain everything. Gear orientation was correct on startup, but drifted enough during the 10s run that the motor is now mechanically out of time.
Does this have an all-in-one nosecone ignition, or an external module?
When you put in the new ignition (either nosecone or external) did you set the static timing based on TDC front cylinder? If you did, was the timing (either with the nosecone cam position sensor or the full ignition module) more or less in the center of the adjustment range on the slots?
A telltale for a mechanically out of time motor is being all the way to one end of the slots or the other when setting static ignition timing.
Yes the set static timing on both the dyna 2000i and crane hi4 at tdc. Rotated it ever so slightly till the red light went off. I am hoping too its the sheared key or maybe cam gear not pressed on right - something in the nose cone. Will report on the fresh battery test before that.
Never started since top end done? That's interesting. Something 180 out?
Put a timing light on it and see where the spark is in relation to the flywheel, and I would suggest a waste spark mode, not individual cylinder sparks.
This is an OEM cam+gear from a 1990. I marked the teeth that have the timing marks, then extended those to the reverse side. If you're concerned about the installation of your cam gear, you can use this as a reference. The lobes on yours (even if aftermarket) should be at least in the ballpark of this.
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