EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 06:25 PM
  #31  
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When you have a problem child and change this that and the other, it's too easy to overthink things and overlook simple and obvious possibilities including something you just did not being correct. We've all done that, trust me! Walk back and double check everything you did from that point to now.

I still go back to "it started and ran for 10 seconds." I've had bikes do that (no start, white smoke out the carb) and it was always timing way out or most often, fuel delivery problems. Fuel problems can be carb or manifold/vacuum issues.

Since you now have a known or suspected good carb, make sure the VOES hose is connected or plugged. Take the manifold loose at the heads. It may have the o-rings in backward or who knows what was or wasn't done. If you're confident all that's good, put the Ultima module back on, time it static precisely by the instructions. Put a known good dual fire coil on it if you have one.

Not saying you won't have to go inside the engine, but it'll all be for nothing if the outsides are out of order.

 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 07:41 PM
  #32  
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Tried with no voes and vacuum port plugged and no dice. The intake seals don’t seems bad or at least no bad enough for a no start. Feels like the ignition is way out of whack. But I agree with you I am trying to avoid going into the motor cause not like I know exactly what I’d be looking for lol. I have done a couple twin cam top ends and know the general principles of what’s needed to get these running but there’s definitely a non trivial difference in the workings of the evo vs twin cam. I’ll keep trying a few things to avoid tearing the motor till the weekend. Worst case I’ll at least learn what’s in there...
 

Last edited by Jpcl; Nov 16, 2020 at 07:48 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 07:58 PM
  #33  
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You changed the Ultima to HI-4 so what is in it now? Have you timed the ignition in static mode per the install instructions? And you still have the (hopefully) "good" carb on it?

Were you saying (before the edit) that it turns over well with the throttle closed but struggled to turn with the throttle open... did I get that right?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 08:25 PM
  #34  
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[QUOTE=t150vej;19540824]You changed the Ultima to HI-4 so what is in it now? Have you timed the ignition in static mode per the install instructions? And you still have the (hopefully) "good" carb on it?

Were you saying (before the edit) that it turns over well with the throttle closed but struggled to turn with the throttle open... did I get that right?[/QUOTE]

I caught that myself and I'm starting to wonder if it's too much fuel and hydrolocking...

 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 08:31 PM
  #35  
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Yes tried crane hi4 and ultima(dyna 2000i) and same result.

yes you got that right - hard to turn over without Carb or throttle wide open. (Could be because I didn’t remove the plugs and my head hurts lol)
 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 08:51 PM
  #36  
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Couple last things to cross out - would lifters have anything with maybe valves not opening correctly or cranks filling with too much? Basically anything oil pressure related that can affect start? The oil pressure light does go out after a couple cranks so feels like that should not cause problems but wanted to check.

Also in case this ends being a top end tear down any issues/weak spots to look at?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 08:58 PM
  #37  
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Make sure when you put it back together all holes are dry.
If there's oil in there the bolt pressure will crack the heads
 
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Old Nov 16, 2020 | 09:16 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jpcl
Yes tried crane hi4 and ultima(dyna 2000i) and same result.

yes you got that right - hard to turn over without Carb or throttle wide open. (Could be because I didn’t remove the plugs and my head hurts lol)
If it's out of time (ignition) that could cause the turn over issue you mention but with the carb off, shouldn't cause the starter to stall.

Being the engine internals are a complete unknown... it may have high compression pistons, no telling what cam, if the cam is out of time the valves could be opening late/early causing compression to start building too low in the stroke...

Sometimes you just have to step away for a while and reset your head.
If you do end up going into it, go into the cam chest first. Simple as can be, especially if it has adjustable push rods. At least verify the cam gear timing and have an idea of which cam it has.

 
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 06:28 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by t150vej
....it's too easy to overthink things and overlook simple and obvious possibilities.....

.....Sometimes you just have to step away for a while and reset your head...........
.
Bit of my own advice struck me this morning....

A 270 amp battery is barely adequate to turn one over under ideal conditions. After 3-4 tries, it's done till it's recharged.
120 compression sounds about right if done with a closed throttle.
A cheap but adequate set of jumper cables will cost you less than rocker box gaskets for just one cylinder.

Just sayin'


 
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Old Nov 17, 2020 | 10:31 AM
  #40  
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I just replaced the coil on my dresser that tested good but would barely start the bike. Mine was doing a lot of snorting and coughing also.
New coil and it fires up better than it ever has. Try a high output coil before tearing into it if possible.
Since you have replaced the carb, that would be my next step.

Griz
 
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