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I just replaced the coil on my dresser that tested good but would barely start the bike. Mine was doing a lot of snorting and coughing also.
New coil and it fires up better than it ever has. Try a high output coil before tearing into it if possible.
Since you have replaced the carb, that would be my next step.
Griz
Agreed. Just because a coil ohms out good, doesn't mean it will work correctly.
I suggested earlier he change the coil since he has borrowed an ignition and carburetor. I wouldn't think a stock coil we be that hard to source.
Come to think of it, it had an Ultima nose cone module when he started on it. If the PO installed it and the coil came with the module, I can attest that those coils are usually junk. Mine lasted about 200 miles and I've heard bad things about them since.
Coil tested fine for resistance and does fire both plugs. I did source a stock dual fire coil, verified the ohms and the switched the ultima dyna200i to dual fire and tried but no dice.
for the too much fuel hydro locking comment would love to know what that means and how to troubleshoot it
also for the suggestion above for using jumper cables did you mean like to try to jump it off a car battery?
Coil tested fine for resistance and does fire both plugs. I did source a stock dual fire coil, verified the ohms and the switched the ultima dyna200i to dual fire and tried but no dice.
for the too much fuel hydro locking comment would love to know what that means and how to troubleshoot it
also for the suggestion above for using jumper cables did you mean like to try to jump it off a car battery?
Hydro lock is when enough liquid gets into the cylinder to effectively lock it. Liquid cannot be compressed.
Yes, car type jumper cables, about $15-$20 at the chain parts stores (Advance, Oreilys, Autozone etc)
Take the ignition module out - don't disconnect it. Take out the screw holding the timing rotor to the cam. Pull it out and make sure the dimple next to the screw hole engages the notch in the camshaft, replace the screw and module.
Also, verify the wire connections on the bike. You really only "need" white and pink (for the dual fire coil) blue is used for the single fire operation, green goes to tach, purple goes to the VOES but you said it's unplugged at the hose.All that's in the install sheet and don't worry about the switches, just make sure they are all off (down) for now.
0maha types faster than I do... his bike is probably faster too
Last edited by t150vej; Nov 17, 2020 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: 0maha
I caught that myself and I'm starting to wonder if it's too much fuel and hydrolocking...
The fuel system cannot put out enough fuel to cause hydrolock while the engine is cranking, the only way to hydrolock an engine is if the cylinder is filled with fuel while stationary.
Hydro lock is when enough liquid gets into the cylinder to effectively lock it. Liquid cannot be compressed.
Yes, car type jumper cables, about $15-$20 at the chain parts stores (Advance, Oreilys, Autozone etc)
Take the ignition module out - don't disconnect it. Take out the screw holding the timing rotor to the cam. Pull it out and make sure the dimple next to the screw hole engages the notch in the camshaft, replace the screw and module.
Also, verify the wire connections on the bike. You really only "need" white and pink (for the dual fire coil) blue is used for the single fire operation, green goes to tach, purple goes to the VOES but you said it's unplugged at the hose.All that's in the install sheet and don't worry about the switches, just make sure they are all off (down) for now.
0maha types faster than I do... his bike is probably faster too
I bought a bike once that didnt run and it was becasue someone had forgotten to put the screw in that rotor cup lol
Checked the rotor and verified the part number needed and also that the notch was set correctly.
going to try the car battery jump next as the last step.
checked the cylinders there is not fuel collecting. Just a little droplets from all trying to start with the net rocket. The droplets were clear and did look like oil but cant say for sure. Will report back this weekend once I get a little more time with this .
I had originally written a disappointed update which lol I had to just edit when the f***er just ran. My last resort was to just unplug the vacuum port that the voes hose was connected to and the damn thing started.
if I plug the vacuum port with my finger then it dies. Not sure whats going on there. Also have to set up idle etc. But at least this tells me that the motor is fine and that fuel delivery is the issue.
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