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Dual sensor? Is it really that important to monitor both cylinders? Was going to monitor the front only but inquiring minds want to know. Looks like dual channel brings the price up an additional 150 to 200 bucks over the single channel, so probably won't happen.
Where did you mount yours? Permanent or temp? What about cable length? 42 inch harness or 96 inch?
I know lots of questions but thanks.
I have the Power Commander V, auto tuner and data logger display. This is my target AFR, I set it where I want it.
This is the fuel that is is adjusting on Cyl 1 to get the AFR
This is the fuel that is is adjusting on Cyl 2 to get the AFR
This is the timing adjustment to avance or retard
If you build your map based on 1 cylinder, then then the other cylinder will be off on the AFR
RLH3175
You are for sure running on the safe side, 34 miles per gallon is a good guess, my big cube is running numbers like those weighing in around 140hp.
Putting just an opinion to the side the auto tune looks like a good system and showing the operation of a EFI map, gives Evo members a good idea how a EFI map is set up and makes adjustments. Auto tune graph is showing the front cylinder is putting in more fuel compared to the rear with adjustments meaning it is leaner confirming the front cylinder on a Harley runs hotter against the theory of lack of air flow to the rear cylinder. According to this information you posted tuning a carb off the front cylinder is the proper way to tune the prehistoric dripping device. Have heard a few engine guru's speak about the design of a Harley engine runs richer on the back cylinder, have heard the back cylinder runs hotter(leaner) from lack of air flow, your graph confirms the front cylinder runs leaner and good to know.
RLH3175
You are for sure running on the safe side, 34 miles per gallon is a good guess, my big cube is running numbers like those weighing in around 140hp.
Putting just an opinion to the side the auto tune looks like a good system and showing the operation of a EFI map, gives Evo members a good idea how a EFI map is set up and makes adjustments. Auto tune graph is showing the front cylinder is putting in more fuel compared to the rear with adjustments meaning it is leaner confirming the front cylinder on a Harley runs hotter against the theory of lack of air flow to the rear cylinder. According to this information you posted tuning a carb off the front cylinder is the proper way to tune the prehistoric dripping device. Have heard a few engine guru's speak about the design of a Harley engine runs richer on the back cylinder, have heard the back cylinder runs hotter(leaner) from lack of air flow, your graph confirms the front cylinder runs leaner and good to know.
No comment about which cylinder gets hotter- there are ways to measure that, if you wish.
The numbers are different, because you're starting from different baseline points. Look at the factory/SE/PV/TTS maps, and you'll see VE values vary, front to rear., so the amount needed to add would be different.
RLH3175
You are for sure running on the safe side, 34 miles per gallon is a good guess, my big cube is running numbers like those weighing in around 140hp.
Putting just an opinion to the side the auto tune looks like a good system and showing the operation of a EFI map, gives Evo members a good idea how a EFI map is set up and makes adjustments. Auto tune graph is showing the front cylinder is putting in more fuel compared to the rear with adjustments meaning it is leaner confirming the front cylinder on a Harley runs hotter against the theory of lack of air flow to the rear cylinder. According to this information you posted tuning a carb off the front cylinder is the proper way to tune the prehistoric dripping device. Have heard a few engine guru's speak about the design of a Harley engine runs richer on the back cylinder, have heard the back cylinder runs hotter(leaner) from lack of air flow, your graph confirms the front cylinder runs leaner and good to know.
I'm running 10 to 1 pistons and EV 27 cam, can't lean it out much more, That is my summer tune, I can go a little leaner in the winter.
No comment about which cylinder gets hotter- there are ways to measure that, if you wish.
The numbers are different, because you're starting from different baseline points. Look at the factory/SE/PV/TTS maps, and you'll see VE values vary, front to rear., so the amount needed to add would be different.
Your verifying Harley engine cylinders run different VE's needing different fuel amounts added correct? Kinda my point
I'm running 10 to 1 pistons and EV 27 cam, can't lean it out much more, That is my summer tune, I can go a little leaner in the winter.
Understand, it's on the edge with the intake valve closing of the EV27. A carb's accelerator pump puts a big hit it in allowing a little more safety but fully get not sticking a piston with your targets.
You running red injectors? tried 10.2-1, W6H in a modded 89" with M&M using a Powercommander format and ran out of fuel delivery, also had the center divider removed on the plenum, it moved a lot more air needing fuel to match. A CV and Mikuni 45 on the same engine was fine at 13.2 wot, 13.8 cruise, 14.2 idle
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