Cam cover gasket change
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 163
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Cam cover gasket change
Hello All,
Fixing leaking gaskets this winter riding break.
1998 Dyna wide glide Evo. 100k+ miles.
I have a leaking cam cover gasket and am also curious to check out condition of cam, breather gear etc.
Ive had the top end off before. I'm reading I need to take pressure off lifters before pulling nose cone.
If I'm going from the rocker side do I just tap out the rocker arm shaft and pull out rocker or pull the whole intact bottom (inner) rocker cover?
I understand you have to take your time bolting down to allow bleed down in lifters.
Is there a best way from your experience to do this?
Also, if I mark timing marks in cone and don't turn motor over, and don't turn the cam, the timing will stay the same?
Thanks in advance
Fixing leaking gaskets this winter riding break.
1998 Dyna wide glide Evo. 100k+ miles.
I have a leaking cam cover gasket and am also curious to check out condition of cam, breather gear etc.
Ive had the top end off before. I'm reading I need to take pressure off lifters before pulling nose cone.
If I'm going from the rocker side do I just tap out the rocker arm shaft and pull out rocker or pull the whole intact bottom (inner) rocker cover?
I understand you have to take your time bolting down to allow bleed down in lifters.
Is there a best way from your experience to do this?
Also, if I mark timing marks in cone and don't turn motor over, and don't turn the cam, the timing will stay the same?
Thanks in advance
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,428
Likes: 2,628
From: NC USA
Pulling the shafts without pulling the rocker lowers is an exercise in frustration unless you have adjustable push rods.
Are you sure it's the cover gasket? A leaking cam seal will ooze oil down and out the timing sensor wiring. It will go all over and look like it's from the cover gasket. You will know when you remove the timing sensor and timing cup so plan on changing that also.
If you carefully scribe a mark to locate the sensor in the housing, you will be close on ignition timing when you re-assemble if you don't change the cam. Either way, best to verify with a timing light when it's all back together.
The engine will turn very easily with the push rods and spark plugs out using the pinion gear nut. Just line up the pinion gear, cam and breather gear marks and install the cover.
Are you sure it's the cover gasket? A leaking cam seal will ooze oil down and out the timing sensor wiring. It will go all over and look like it's from the cover gasket. You will know when you remove the timing sensor and timing cup so plan on changing that also.
If you carefully scribe a mark to locate the sensor in the housing, you will be close on ignition timing when you re-assemble if you don't change the cam. Either way, best to verify with a timing light when it's all back together.
The engine will turn very easily with the push rods and spark plugs out using the pinion gear nut. Just line up the pinion gear, cam and breather gear marks and install the cover.
A good shop manual will be important on this as there are many things you will want to check if you decide to get into cam chest. If not done properly or not put back together properly you can create issues that were not there.
Checking rocker arm play
checking pushrods
Cam end play....though I believe stock cam that year just had a cam gear washer but if u change cam you will set end play
Breather gear clearance if changed
and list goes on and on. Great learning opportunities. Nothing hard just a lot of details.
or just change gasket and run it till it breaks. It does have 100k🤙
Checking rocker arm play
checking pushrods
Cam end play....though I believe stock cam that year just had a cam gear washer but if u change cam you will set end play
Breather gear clearance if changed
and list goes on and on. Great learning opportunities. Nothing hard just a lot of details.
or just change gasket and run it till it breaks. It does have 100k🤙
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,183
Likes: 12,762
From: South Carolina
If the lifters have more than about 35K on them, toss them into the scrap barrel.
If the engine does not have a Torrington/Koyo B-138 inner cam bearing, now is the time to put one in.
When re installing the rocker supports, follow the (genuine Harley Davidson) service manual religiously...
If the engine does not have a Torrington/Koyo B-138 inner cam bearing, now is the time to put one in.
When re installing the rocker supports, follow the (genuine Harley Davidson) service manual religiously...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jan 4, 2021 at 11:30 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 163
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Leak
The exhaust bracket that bolts in two places with the channel for the timing wires to go through at some point got loose and broke out. So it's been weeping at bottom. By pulling cone cover i can pull the broken studs out. I'm hoping to wind in new bolts that I already have, i can seal it up even with threads in cone cover worn out. (?)
the lifters are new, couple years ago I replaced cylenders, pistons and did some headwork with hillside.
I did the adjustable pushrods with new lifter blocks.
I'd prefer this time not to get the bike on a lift, loosen each pushrod then repeat the process if I can just pull the rocker assembly each as a whole to release pressure on the drivetrain
This will be my first time pulling the nose cone though. I do have a manual I will refer to it for more detail and torque specs, but I know theres years of real experience on this site for help for the best way to do things.
Yes I'll pull full rocker assemblies and order more gaskets lol
Thanks
the lifters are new, couple years ago I replaced cylenders, pistons and did some headwork with hillside.
I did the adjustable pushrods with new lifter blocks.
I'd prefer this time not to get the bike on a lift, loosen each pushrod then repeat the process if I can just pull the rocker assembly each as a whole to release pressure on the drivetrain
This will be my first time pulling the nose cone though. I do have a manual I will refer to it for more detail and torque specs, but I know theres years of real experience on this site for help for the best way to do things.
Yes I'll pull full rocker assemblies and order more gaskets lol
Thanks
HDF Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,428
Likes: 2,628
From: NC USA
Well, whatever procedure you're comfortable with is the way to go but...
Depends whether yours are fully adjustable, or simply adjustable - makes a difference on alternative methods to get where you want to go. Doing it the factory way (as with solid rods) will cost you an additional $65+ in gaskets, won't save any time at all and you'll still have to turn the engine to remove and replace the lower rocker housings.
I highly recommend a new cam bearing if you didn't do that already, but if you're not actually pulling the cam you can get the cam cover off without pulling anything up top (if you know the tricks). Regardless, you don't need it on a jack for anything you're doing. We can describe the steps for whatever procedure you choose but again, whatever you're most comfortable with is the way to do it.
...
Depends whether yours are fully adjustable, or simply adjustable - makes a difference on alternative methods to get where you want to go. Doing it the factory way (as with solid rods) will cost you an additional $65+ in gaskets, won't save any time at all and you'll still have to turn the engine to remove and replace the lower rocker housings.
I highly recommend a new cam bearing if you didn't do that already, but if you're not actually pulling the cam you can get the cam cover off without pulling anything up top (if you know the tricks). Regardless, you don't need it on a jack for anything you're doing. We can describe the steps for whatever procedure you choose but again, whatever you're most comfortable with is the way to do it.
...
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Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Beyond Fucital
Unless you're pulling the cam or gears you don't have to do any of that to replace the cam cover gasket
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 163
Likes: 5
I was under the understanding that when you pull the cam cover/nose cone, it will be hard to put the cover back on with a load on the pushrods etc.
something about the cam gear will move or shift.
That's why I post here AND the service manual.
What are these wonderful tricks please and I do mean it
Thanks
something about the cam gear will move or shift.
That's why I post here AND the service manual.
What are these wonderful tricks please and I do mean it
Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,183
Likes: 12,762
From: South Carolina
The service manual process to remove the cam cover is to remove the pushrods first.
If you don`t, the cam will drop down because the lifter/s will be putting pressure on the cam.
The bike has 100K on it, chances are the lifters are past due for a change anyway.
And if it is not known what type inner cam bearing is in the engine, the cam should come out to investigate.
If you don`t, the cam will drop down because the lifter/s will be putting pressure on the cam.
The bike has 100K on it, chances are the lifters are past due for a change anyway.
And if it is not known what type inner cam bearing is in the engine, the cam should come out to investigate.