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Halfmoon key on the shaft either sheared or was left out and the hub has spun on the taper, that's what scored it up so badly, new shaft time sorry to say.
Clutch rod has been been grinding on the end and has been hot, either bent it slightly or swelled it enough it's tight in the bushing in the end of the shaft, that was your shifting issue, Don't remember off hand but I think that was a 2 or 3 piece throw out rod also. I'd be looking at the pressure plate adjuster screw and pop the other side and check the throw out bearing. It's usually goes out when they eat themselves up that badly
yeah I hear what your saying, but these tapered shafts on these early evo's are a weak point, not like the tapered shafts that the shovel's had, I Just converted my 85 last year for easy and cheap, If I'm going to go threw the work or removing the main shaft I'm going to improve it, but that's just me,
Halfmoon key on the shaft either sheared or was left out and the hub has spun on the taper, that's what scored it up so badly, new shaft time sorry to say.
Clutch rod has been been grinding on the end and has been hot, either bent it slightly or swelled it enough it's tight in the bushing in the end of the shaft, that was your shifting issue, Don't remember off hand but I think that was a 2 or 3 piece throw out rod also. I'd be looking at the pressure plate adjuster screw and pop the other side and check the throw out bearing. It's usually goes out when they eat themselves up that badly
The rod comes out about 3/4 of inch. Its not tight though, it slides freely but comes to a complete stop before it comes out.
Halfmoon key on the shaft either sheared or was left out and the hub has spun on the taper, that's what scored it up so badly, new shaft time sorry to say.
Clutch rod has been been grinding on the end and has been hot, either bent it slightly or swelled it enough it's tight in the bushing in the end of the shaft, that was your shifting issue, Don't remember off hand but I think that was a 2 or 3 piece throw out rod also. I'd be looking at the pressure plate adjuster screw and pop the other side and check the throw out bearing. It's usually goes out when they eat themselves up that badly
I don't know exactly when the factory went to the longer adjuster screw but that's all you can get anymore. His is the 3 piece (plus) adjuster screw. In the book, the 37090-84A is listed as that extension on the left, but if you get that number from the dealer or anywhere, it's the longer version that eliminates that short extension.
Originally Posted by mike131
1991- 1994 clutch primary, you can use your original inner and outer primary covers, compensating sprocket, primary chain and original starter
Thanks for the info Mike. I never converted one, always replaced the shaft with original and was mistaken on the conversion.
If you want to keep it original, the main shaft is still available, the clutch hub and key should be replaced too. That's all about $350. with trap door and hub bearings and seals. You just need the puller/installer for the inner race and a cheap press. No other special tools needed unless you remove the main drive gear. That's another operation in itself. And don't forget a genuine HD Factory Service Manual. It's a must because no one here is gonna type out every step it takes to disassemble the gear set. It's not difficult
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