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1997 fxd motor upgrades

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Old Feb 27, 2021 | 10:58 AM
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Default 1997 fxd motor upgrades

Hello people just looking for some advice. I'm getting ready to dump some money into my 1997 fxd with 80k miles. It's starting to smoke at idle and with high revs and getting a decent amount of blow by . I'm having to add oil every few hundred miles. Thinking either piston rings or valve seals.
My question is while this thing is apart what upgrades should I do for under $2k big bore kit, ported heads? The bike is camed with screaming eagle ignition. Thanks in advance
 
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Old Feb 27, 2021 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Street surfer
Hello people just looking for some advice. I'm getting ready to dump some money into my 1997 fxd with 80k miles. It's starting to smoke at idle and with high revs and getting a decent amount of blow by . I'm having to add oil every few hundred miles. Thinking either piston rings or valve seals.
My question is while this thing is apart what upgrades should I do for under $2k big bore kit, ported heads? The bike is camed with screaming eagle ignition. Thanks in advance

How deep/spendy down the rabbit hole do you want to go,

Hence may just need to pull the jugs and horn them so new set of rings will seat in if pistons and cylinders are not too worn, new set of rings, valve seals, top end gasket kit, clean up heads as you are changing the valve seals and bob's your uncle for around $100.
As for cam, if you have a high rev'g cam in the bike (not just a mid range more torque cam), then would replace the valve springs as the same time and maybe check the vavle guides to valve stems for excessive lash (through in another $100 for spring and guides if needed).

If cylinders are too worn where they will need to be bored, new piston and rings, then you can decide just how far down the rabbit hole you want to go at that point with lower end as well.

Really, get the jugs off first to see what you have going on to begin with, then get an attack plan from there.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2021 | 05:33 PM
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Thanks I got about $2k I have to get me in the rabbit hole with, not sure of the cam it realy hits hard after 2nd gear definitely more power than torque. I will not be doing this work myself. Taking it to an Indy shop. Was hoping to get the power and torque numbers up a little bit more for $2k
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 09:13 AM
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Evo's engine builds vary with opinions, a known proven formula will produce 80hp/80tq in reality riding conditions and this number is being moderate.
Wiseco 10.0-1 pistons
Wood W6 or Vthunder 3020
Cylinder head port work or you should at least do a valve job and seals, W6/3020 can keep the stock valve springs
Dyna or Ultima 2000I ignition, you will thank yourself.
CV carb will need some jet/needle work, CV performance is a good place
Exhaust will need to breath.

If your paying someone to do the work your $2000 will get ate up pretty quickly making a Evo a faster, they have 8.5-1 compression and large combustion chambers enables a ceiling on performance with the OEM compression, Evo's need compression to run. Whoever does your engine work is going to have their own opinion but just keep in mind building a Harley to run is a formula, just not flying by the seat of your pants throwing parts at it, a lot of money can be wasted by mis-matched components.

Loose the Idea of a big bore kit, the engine will need to come out and have the spigot's bored to accept larger cylinders and Evo casings can be a gamble on strength when thinning down the spigot area.

Something else to keep in mind on the street when building a Harley engine, gotta have some torque, it takes a long stretch of road for a engine with high hp/low torque to catch a engine that has both hp and torque even if it has less hp.
 

Last edited by 1997bagger; Feb 28, 2021 at 09:31 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 1997bagger
Evo's engine builds vary with opinions, a known proven formula will produce 80hp/80tq in reality riding conditions and this number is being moderate.
Wiseco 10.0-1 pistons
Wood W6 or Vthunder 3020
Cylinder head port work or you should at least do a valve job and seals, W6/3020 can keep the stock valve springs
Dyna or Ultima 2000I ignition, you will thank yourself.
CV carb will need some jet/needle work, CV performance is a good place
Exhaust will need to breath.
That's pretty close to the formula I went with when I did my ElectraGlide a couple of years ago.

Called Scott at Hillside Cycle and talked everything over. The formula above is almost exactly where we ended up. Only difference was he went with the W6H cam.

Sent the heads and jugs off to New York. Got everything back a few weeks later. Only issue bolting it all together was needing to clearance the right side case just a smidge to clear the cam.

I've never gotten around to putting it on a dyno, but the seat of the pants result is perfect. Mostly I wanted to bike to feel comfortable at modern Interstate speeds, and still have something left for passing power. Mission accomplished.

All in, I was just over your $2k budget.
 
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