Dyna death by barrel key switch
Found a 1995 Dyna Conv with 14K miles, bags and windshield a little beat but all there. Seller was asking Sportster money, I couldnt say no. It was bone stock with the exception of a janky Live to Ride air cleaner cover and bonus Pingel powerflow petcock, started right up from cold with no scary noises.
Got it home, went over all the fasteners and safetied it to my own satisfaction, decided to take it for a longish ride to thoroughly warm up the oils so I could do a 3 hole change and service.
Ride was going great until pulling away from a stoplight, immediate loss of power in the form of only one jug firing with accompanying tach pegging at 6 oclock. Got pulled over in a parking lot and turned off ignition switch to investigate, when I turned switch back on...nothing, no lights. After jiggling the key a couple (of hundred) times, lights, camera, action.
When I got home, did some reading on this forum and realized I wasnt alone in my problem, an ignition switch swap was in my future.
Looked through my HD service manuals and HD parts book, realized I had a bastard child transition year bike...Parts catalog says 71428-90B 2 wire switch, Service manual says cut the 3 wires on removal of old switch...hmmmm.
Pull seat, investigate...sure enough, its 3 wire switch with a 4 way connector a la 1996 Dynas, okay Dennis Kirk do your stuff.
Curious to see what was going on inside the offending switch, I removed the epoxy covering the 2 fasteners on the back and drilled out the rivets holding it together and found 25+year old GP grease covering corroded contacts.
The odds of this happening to me again in my lifetime are pretty low, but Ill still prep a spare switch to carry with me to beat the odds.
As far as pictures go...well, I can barely remember where my pills are in the morning let alone figure out how to do that.
Yall are lucky Im not writing this in all caps.
Rubber side down...
Drilled out the rivets, dig out the epoxy etc.
Cleaned all the contacts, had to order a set of ten of the little plastic ***** even though it only requires one... from China is the only place I could find them. The roller ball on mine no longer rolled and was ground flat on the friction side.
I drilled out the area of the rivets and threaded in 8/32 bolts with the head ground off (think small sized threaded rod) turning them in to threaded posts where the rivets used to be.
lubed everything up with synthetic grease and reassembled using washers and nuts to hold the plastic plate.
then a little coating of silicone to seal everything up and the switch has a new lease on life.
the copper contacts where pretty oxidized and now its like a brand new switch. Easy to take apart now with the threaded posts.
I know its a lot of trouble rebuilding one, but I use my fork lock and I like having the keys match.
thanks for posting, at least Im not the only one... YD









