Top-End Rebuild
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,121
Likes: 6
From: Huntersville, NC
RE: Top-End Rebuild
ORIGINAL: LeadDoggy
Base gaskets leaking with 65K mile, so I disassembled my 98 FLHTCI and took heads and juggs to shop today. Shop telling me to replace the cam, lifters and cyclinder studs also. Looking for inputson the extra parts. Already over budget on the new pistons, bore and head rebuild parts and labor.
Should I replace the studs?
Should I replaces the cam and lifters?
Thanks
Base gaskets leaking with 65K mile, so I disassembled my 98 FLHTCI and took heads and juggs to shop today. Shop telling me to replace the cam, lifters and cyclinder studs also. Looking for inputson the extra parts. Already over budget on the new pistons, bore and head rebuild parts and labor.
Should I replace the studs?
Should I replaces the cam and lifters?
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Top-End Rebuild
Thanks Guys,
I know first hand about the EV27 cam. Installed one in my 94 Heritage. Gobs of playful power!
To the best of my knowledge, the SE3 is used in the Stage II kit for my bike. Remember that my Harleyis Fuel Injected. So then would I have to install the bigger injectors? reprogram the computer? purchase a programmer of some type?
Don't want to go that far, but I am now planning onthe cam and lifters change.
Thanks again
I know first hand about the EV27 cam. Installed one in my 94 Heritage. Gobs of playful power!
To the best of my knowledge, the SE3 is used in the Stage II kit for my bike. Remember that my Harleyis Fuel Injected. So then would I have to install the bigger injectors? reprogram the computer? purchase a programmer of some type?
Don't want to go that far, but I am now planning onthe cam and lifters change.
Thanks again
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: Whitley Bay, North-East England
RE: Top-End Rebuild
the lifters is a definite.
change them every 30-40K
H-D upgraded the OEM lifters in the mid 90s and the newer ones are superb cheap insurance
you sure could swap out the studs also, but at that age you have the later (improved) type already....... so that's a 'your call' item far as I can see.
change them every 30-40K
H-D upgraded the OEM lifters in the mid 90s and the newer ones are superb cheap insurance
you sure could swap out the studs also, but at that age you have the later (improved) type already....... so that's a 'your call' item far as I can see.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Rockmart, Ga.
RE: Top-End Rebuild
There is something else that i think would be a good investment. It's called, cylinder pigtail kit from Bikers Choice. The part number is 59-8050. It retails for $58.95. What it does is where the drain back for the oil from the rocker boxes back to the bottom end goes through the drain built into the cylinder, that is where the leak on evo's comes from. There is a lot of movement that goes on between hot and cold operation. Then over time it finally starts to leak. The best gaskets that i have used are the metal base gaskets that Cometics offers. Between that and the pigtails you should be set a long time.
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: The Middle
RE: Top-End Rebuild
I used to do machine work on race car engines and stud replacement was a must. When you torque something you are actually stretching the bolt or studto preload it. They can only be stretched or so many times be fore they weaken and do not hold a torque value. You can tell the difference when you torque a new stud vs an old one by the spongy feel as you get close. Let it sit and retorque it and see if it held the value. I would think that the theory would apply here also. In fact, stud stretch may very well be why the base gaskets started leaking in the first place. My 2cents
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
RE: Top-End Rebuild
I would skip on the studs.......you have the later ones and they are much improved.
The cam and lifters replacement......they just have to be inspected for wear. They may not show any wear at all and still might be ok. I recently had to do the base gaskets on my 98 EVO with about 55,000 miles....and the cam and the lifters showed no wear at all. You mentioned you are on a budget......so comfirm these two items are within specification or not before replacing.
Definately replace the INA cam bearing to the Torrington bearing.
The cam and lifters replacement......they just have to be inspected for wear. They may not show any wear at all and still might be ok. I recently had to do the base gaskets on my 98 EVO with about 55,000 miles....and the cam and the lifters showed no wear at all. You mentioned you are on a budget......so comfirm these two items are within specification or not before replacing.
Definately replace the INA cam bearing to the Torrington bearing.
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
RE: Top-End Rebuild
It's hard to remember when HD came out with their much improvedOEM lifters. As I recall, it was 1997. If anyone knows for sure, please let the rest of us know. The HD SE catalog mentions the SE-3 cam (identical to the Andrews EV-27) for the FI EVO models, stating that it is emissions legal if an ECM calibration is performed, leading me to believe that it is a very viable choice for your bike. Cam choice is like, dare I say it,motor oil choices,you won'tseeeveryone agreeing on what's best. I have an SE-1 cam in my bagger. This is near the extreme for a bolt in cam, advertised to make its best power from 4000-6000 RPM's, well above high gear cruising speed (60 MPH is at 2700-2800 RPM's on my bike). And it works fine, it can be fun when in a hot rodding mood and is pretty OK when riding single, but is only marginallyacceptable when riding double (I have to downshift more oftento get the rev's up to where there is enough power).I'd rather have a better powerband in the rev range that I use most, 2500-3500 RPM's, andthe SE-3/EV-27 is very well suited for that range, starting to make noticeable power as low as 1500-2000 RPM's. So I bought an SE-3, which I'll install after the riding season is over. The best advice on cams that I ever heard is to forgetpower numbers and select the cam according to yourriding habits,(the rev range where you want the power). Cams withspecs that areclose to the SE-3/EV-27 show dyno curveswith good power within the rev range that most cruising/touring riders use (2500-3500 RPM's). The Nightrider website offers an awesome list of cams with complete specs for each.Dyno charts for specific cams are very helpful too.
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