I have a 93 Ultra Classic that currently have Kerker slip ons installed. They are getting old and beat up, so I bought a set of cheap Power House slip ons to try out that are at least in better shape. I went to install them last night to hear how they sounded and unfortunately ran into a little problem. The header pipes (which i believe to be stock) are 1 3/4" and have a slight flare at the end where the Kerker slides into. The new ones are straight at the end with a little slit on both side and have an inner diameter of 1 3/4". From the looks of it these would need to slide over the header pipe instead of inside like the old ones did? Also in order to do that I'm guessing I would have to cut the flared end? I just wanted to check if anyone has dealt with this before I start cutting anything. On the manufacturers info it stated the following :

• When 1985/1994 OEM stock head pipes are used, the lock ring must be removed

By lock ring I am assuming the clamp that holds the flared end to the muffler end? I can see where that would need to be left out but there is nothing mentioned about the flared end of the pipe?

Gimme a minute and I'll add some pictures so you can get a better ides of what i'm looking at.

 

Header to the left and kerker muffler to the right slid into it.

End of new slip on.

 

Your original pipes are flange mount and mufflers for them are getting hard to come by, with very few options. Yes, guys have simply cut the flare off the original pipes and run slip fit mufflers. But to destroy $600. worth of original pipes is a crime (to me anyway).

Many have simply bought a used set of take off pipes anywhere from 2006 or earlier and used later mufflers. I think some pipes off even later models will work if you plug the O2 sensor bung. Just depends whether you want to keep the bike near original and correct for the year model. You can occasionally find flange mount mufflers on ebay if you're patient but look at the photos carefully. Most don't even know what a flange mount muffler looks like anymore...

If those are Screamin Eagle (Kerkers) they are the easiest to tune and rebuild for sound and performance short of the Super Trapp style. Post a picture of you old mufflers, I don't need them, but would like to see them. There were 3 different series of them and the early ones had a different style of baffles and end cap attachment points.

 

I'll post a picture of them as soon as I get home but from what the paperwork stated that came with the bike they are the screaming eagle kerker mufflers. One of my biggest reasons for going down this path was due to trying to get a better sound out of the ones I have. They look as though the baffles are welded in and appear to be not very easy to work on. But if you have any tips or tricks to get a better sound out of them I'm all ears.

 

Depends which series they are. The first series had threads in the end caps themselves. The 2nd had the threads in the end of the reducer and the screws went thru the holes in the end caps. Last series had 3 small outlets in the back end and there's not much you can do for them.

 

Ill take some pictures when i get home, and post them. Hopefully it's one of the first 2.

 

Here are a couple pictures of the screaming eagle/kerker mufflers. If these are ones that can be modified easily please let me know. I’d rather keep them on, just need them to be louder.

 

Remove the exhaust tips, (three screws) the baffle should slide out. You can then measure the baffle and look for a different, more open, baffle or drill a few holes in the existing baffle.

Drill the holes in a uniform staggered pattern, across and along the length of the baffle.

I would recommend not drilling too many or too large of holes in the baffle, you can’t quiet it back down if you go too far.

 

is the baffles only held in by the screws holding the end cap on?

 

I've been trying to do a couple video/audio files so you'd know what it will sound like if you do it like this, but all that may be above my pay grade so here's what I did:

You just take the end caps off and with big pliers, vice grips or whatever, wiggle, twist, pull and they will come out.

There is an reducing adapter on the inlet that may or may not come out with it, no problem either way. In the center between the bulb and the outlet, there is a divider that is riveted but will not come out unless you die grind the weld in the interior where the tube and outlet part are welded. Just leave it in. The bulb between 1 and 2 that has a plate with a larger hole in the center.



This drawing is 1st series, so disregard the outlet (8) being separate from the perforated tube.
================================================== =======================================
Divider



On the inlet end, wrap the area (6) with 1" thick packing, preferably with ceramic packing since it will last longer but fiberglass will work. Leave the riveted divider in place and with about 2-3 inches of packing, stuff the cavity between the outlet (8) and perforated pipe (1). You'll see what I mean when you get it off. If you don't, it'll sound a bit tinny.

If you add packing in the area (5) more than stuffing the tip end, it will be super quiet, so just stuff the very tip end. One thing, especially if the adapter (2) stays in the muffler (and they usually do) cut the packing so there is no overlap where it meets. If it's overlapped, the tube won't be centered as it goes in and will not slide up into the adapter. In other words, when it's all 2-3" from all the way in, you may have to tap it home, but don't try to beat in it - that will deform the tube on the inlet end. If the adapter does come out or if you totally remove the mufflers and drive them out from the inlet, then no problem. I always leave them in...

That will give you a good mellow tone and just enough back pressure so it has best torque. So if you don't mind tinkering a bit, that's how I did mine. Fuel mileage went up 5 mpg, better torque at all speeds and sounds like an Evo Dresser should - to me anyway

I've been trying to do a couple video/audio files but may be above my pay grade