Can someone identify this sound?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
Well I remembered this from many years ago.
These is assuming the stud is good and stuck in the head, most are
Had a stud in an aluminum head with the first 3 threads stripped . Yours maybe a little worse it looks like.
We cleaned the stud best we could and ran a nut down on it and on to some decent threads. Near the head.
Take a second nut and thread it on the stud till it would jam up against the first nut.
Now I don't think your threads holding the second nut are gonna hold much pressure but neither did mine.
A friend had some sorta of Loctite from hell used for setting and sealing piston sleeves in a diesel motor.
We gooped it up on the stud and threads and nuts. Installed the nuts like above, jammed the 2 nuts together with wrenches the best we could. Cleaned up excess.
We aligned the flats of the nuts so a socket could go down over both nuts. The second nut was just real snug at best.
Was gonna leave it 24 hours but ended up leave it a couple days.
Got on it with a socket and it popped loose and came right out.
There maybe a short cut to this way but it worked out well that time I would think JB weld could be used. like this .
Best of luck WP
These is assuming the stud is good and stuck in the head, most are
Had a stud in an aluminum head with the first 3 threads stripped . Yours maybe a little worse it looks like.
We cleaned the stud best we could and ran a nut down on it and on to some decent threads. Near the head.
Take a second nut and thread it on the stud till it would jam up against the first nut.
Now I don't think your threads holding the second nut are gonna hold much pressure but neither did mine.
A friend had some sorta of Loctite from hell used for setting and sealing piston sleeves in a diesel motor.
We gooped it up on the stud and threads and nuts. Installed the nuts like above, jammed the 2 nuts together with wrenches the best we could. Cleaned up excess.
We aligned the flats of the nuts so a socket could go down over both nuts. The second nut was just real snug at best.
Was gonna leave it 24 hours but ended up leave it a couple days.
Got on it with a socket and it popped loose and came right out.
There maybe a short cut to this way but it worked out well that time I would think JB weld could be used. like this .
Best of luck WP
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
WP
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 5,297
From: Behind you, making faces
Thread Starter
|
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 5,297
From: Behind you, making faces
Well I remembered this from many years ago.
These is assuming the stud is good and stuck in the head, most are
Had a stud in an aluminum head with the first 3 threads stripped . Yours maybe a little worse it looks like.
We cleaned the stud best we could and ran a nut down on it and on to some decent threads. Near the head.
Take a second nut and thread it on the stud till it would jam up against the first nut.
Now I don't think your threads holding the second nut are gonna hold much pressure but neither did mine.
A friend had some sorta of Loctite from hell used for setting and sealing piston sleeves in a diesel motor.
We gooped it up on the stud and threads and nuts. Installed the nuts like above, jammed the 2 nuts together with wrenches the best we could. Cleaned up excess.
We aligned the flats of the nuts so a socket could go down over both nuts. The second nut was just real snug at best.
Was gonna leave it 24 hours but ended up leave it a couple days.
Got on it with a socket and it popped loose and came right out.
There maybe a short cut to this way but it worked out well that time I would think JB weld could be used. like this .
Best of luck WP
These is assuming the stud is good and stuck in the head, most are
Had a stud in an aluminum head with the first 3 threads stripped . Yours maybe a little worse it looks like.
We cleaned the stud best we could and ran a nut down on it and on to some decent threads. Near the head.
Take a second nut and thread it on the stud till it would jam up against the first nut.
Now I don't think your threads holding the second nut are gonna hold much pressure but neither did mine.
A friend had some sorta of Loctite from hell used for setting and sealing piston sleeves in a diesel motor.
We gooped it up on the stud and threads and nuts. Installed the nuts like above, jammed the 2 nuts together with wrenches the best we could. Cleaned up excess.
We aligned the flats of the nuts so a socket could go down over both nuts. The second nut was just real snug at best.
Was gonna leave it 24 hours but ended up leave it a couple days.
Got on it with a socket and it popped loose and came right out.
There maybe a short cut to this way but it worked out well that time I would think JB weld could be used. like this .
Best of luck WP
Good thinking though.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 2,134
From: W. Texas
I've seen this tecnique with the two nuts, bonded together (why do I cringe writing that?). Anyway, in this case, the nut will catch thread until the stud comes roughly flush with the top of the nut, so I wouldn't be able to get another nut on. From there, it just spins (the nut, not the stud).
Good thinking though.
Good thinking though.
The locktite holding was what got the stud out
WP
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 5,297
From: Behind you, making faces
Update: Scratch everything I've said, pretty much. It is indeed the head gasket.
It's my own fault for not really knowing what to look for, and I freely admit it. The exhaust spillage is coming from about an inch and a half below the front spark plug, and there is a tiny line of oil there. The exhaust was moving the paper towel closer to the front pipe and that's what sort of fooled me. And speaking of which, I CANNOT get the front pipe to seat, so I'll let a shop deal with that. If they have to remove the head anyway... Once it cools down again, I'll remove the front pipe, which is hanging on by one nut, and send it along.
Enough aggravation, and enough cursing on a Sunday. I'll call some shops tomorrow and make an arrangement.
Thanks for all of your advice.
It's my own fault for not really knowing what to look for, and I freely admit it. The exhaust spillage is coming from about an inch and a half below the front spark plug, and there is a tiny line of oil there. The exhaust was moving the paper towel closer to the front pipe and that's what sort of fooled me. And speaking of which, I CANNOT get the front pipe to seat, so I'll let a shop deal with that. If they have to remove the head anyway... Once it cools down again, I'll remove the front pipe, which is hanging on by one nut, and send it along.
Enough aggravation, and enough cursing on a Sunday. I'll call some shops tomorrow and make an arrangement.
Thanks for all of your advice.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 942
Likes: 323
From: Grew up in Texas, moved to AZ
Thanks for the update. I don't know what brand of head gasket the shop will use to replace your gasket, but ask for either Cometic or James. Both have proven track record. My personal choice are MLS (multi layered steel) of either brand. They have worked well for me.
On the exhaust gasket, it may be that your particular header flange calls for the thin type gasket, instead of the crushable ones. For years, I made the crushable ones work for my V&H Propipes, but they fit the best with the thin type gasket. With the thin ones, you just have to get them on real straight. Good luck on the fixes.
On the exhaust gasket, it may be that your particular header flange calls for the thin type gasket, instead of the crushable ones. For years, I made the crushable ones work for my V&H Propipes, but they fit the best with the thin type gasket. With the thin ones, you just have to get them on real straight. Good luck on the fixes.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 5,297
From: Behind you, making faces
Thanks for the update. I don't know what brand of head gasket the shop will use to replace your gasket, but ask for either Cometic or James. Both have proven track record. My personal choice are MLS (multi layered steel) of either brand. They have worked well for me.
On the exhaust gasket, it may be that your particular header flange calls for the thin type gasket, instead of the crushable ones. For years, I made the crushable ones work for my V&H Propipes, but they fit the best with the thin type gasket. With the thin ones, you just have to get them on real straight. Good luck on the fixes.
On the exhaust gasket, it may be that your particular header flange calls for the thin type gasket, instead of the crushable ones. For years, I made the crushable ones work for my V&H Propipes, but they fit the best with the thin type gasket. With the thin ones, you just have to get them on real straight. Good luck on the fixes.
I've noticed that a lot of the shops around here are closed on Monday, which kind of sucks for me.
I'm also going to ask them about the possibility of replacing that stud with the hosed threads. They might as well if the head has to come off anyway.
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Another vote here for Cometic or James MLS gaskets.
Glad you got to the bottom of this. Re-gasketing a top end isn't too bad of a job.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 5,297
From: Behind you, making faces
Update: There's a local indy shop near me that gets 5-star reviews. I called this morning and explained the situation. They're going to do a complete top-end refresh, both jugs from the base gaskets up, for about $800.00, and the job will take ~2 weeks or so.
He also recommended a hauler, so I'll call later today and make the arrangements. He said there's no reason to have it there before Wednesday.
Thanks again for all the advice.
He also recommended a hauler, so I'll call later today and make the arrangements. He said there's no reason to have it there before Wednesday.
Thanks again for all the advice.