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This is good info. I knew they are prone to leak at the base gaskets but I didn't know why. I assumed HD just used junk gaskets. So warming it up thoroughly will prevent leaks?
Just so I know, why do they leak in the first place?
Different types metal were used and they heat up at different rates. Plus .the cylinders werent really machined for flatness either. The Harley gaskets were ok but there are improved ones.
Wheel bearings: You've got the good, old-style tapered bearings on this bike. Fully serviceable, and should last the life of the bike.
Get some wheel bearing grease (the HD stuff is well regarded around here) and some new bearing seals (your dealer will have them too).
When you pull the wheels for your new tires, pop off the old seals and pull out the bearing. Give it and the race (that's left behind in the wheel) a good cleanup and a good inspect. At 14k miles, yours are almost certainly fine. Any sign of pitting of scoring on either the race or the rollers means new bearing. (Replace the race and bearing as a set.)
Inside the wheel, you'll find a spacer and a stack of shims. Make sure those all end up where they started.
Otherwise, repack with grease and put it back together. Axle nut torque is a little more critical with this style, so be sure the threads on the axle and nut are perfectly clean and use a torque wrench.
Nice find, that should last you a long time. I keep my eye open for deals like that but until the shop is up I'd have to pay to store it .... Last bike I was a XT225 with 941 miles on it,Most of my stuff is older and well taken care of .... 2008 car w/80K miles, '94 Evo owned for 16 years, '92 dirt bike. They hold up when they've been cared for
those bags are hens teeth so take good care of them. Keep them out of the sun when not using or not needed. They are probably due for some leather care and a little silicone on the zippers.
The windscreen has a tinted coating so careful if trying to polish out scratches. You will go thru the coating and make it look worse. Better off replacing with a new copy of the original.
use conventional oil in the crankcase. Helps with the base gasket issue. Enjoy!!
Nice. I bought a '98 FXDS-Convertable with about the same milage 6 years ago. Watch inner cam bearings and failing motor mounts, especially the front because of oil contamination from sloppy oil filter changes. And as others have said, let her warm up before riding to prevent base gasket leaks. Also, watch out for where the saddle bags attach to the fender, those hand tightened screws can come loose. I use a tiny drop of low strength Loctite on mine. Welcome to the EVO club, the last REAL Harley engine!
I recognize that photo and contacted him also. Like you, I thought the asking price was too steep. I wondered why he continually kept relisting the bike for the same price when it was plain nobody wanted to pay that.
It's pretty much a done deal. We're meeting at 3:30 today to make the transaction.
Brakes were all done last summer with only 50 miles on them since the rebuild and flush. Fuel lines looked ok but I'll take a deeper look when I get it home. Tires are in good shape tread wise but they are about 8 years old so Ill probably swap them for some new rubber right away.
What's involved with the wheel bearings?
Just pull the axles making sure to take pictures of the axle spacers and their orientation (you can put the axle spacers in backwards if you dont take pics). Also make sure you stack all the bearing spacers in the same sequence they came out. Then just clean up the races and repack the bearings. Spend the $15 to get a seal puller if you dont have one - youll be glade you did. Youll also need Never-Seize for the axles. Lastly, an alignment tool for the rear wheel (or make one). Wheel bearing repacking is labor intensive but not expensive and not difficult.
Get the factory manual and parts manual. I'm thinking you already have that in mind. Anyway, in the book, there is a drawing of a nice easy to make tool to check your axle alignment. It's really easy to use as well.
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