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Never foolish to re-use a part that looks/specs good, I mean, why would you? But I've had direct experience with fluid migration despite a perfectly installed seal on an apparently good spacer. And most everyone I've known, or know of, who had that issue ended up replacing the spacer (and seal) to finally correct it.
I was under the impression 1990 was the last year for the left case insert, but another part of me thinks the '90 had a solid aluminum left side. I simply can't remember so until someone gets me clued in. I'll have to plead bad memory and/or ignorance.
Suburban Motors still lists replacement case halves on their website with the price listed as "call us." So I did and sure enough, they were superseded to a -83C number and are n/a from MoCo. So if you trash your cases, it's fleabay time.....
The question remains: why was your clutch slipping? Seems the primary oil while low, was adequate.
I'm going to get the other stuff sorted, then see what's what with that.
Worst case scenario is I smoked the new clutch pack when the fluid ran low. I do know that it ran fine for the first however many hundred miles, which tells me it started acting up when the fluid ran low. My guess is that getting the fluid level back to where it needs to be will fix it.
Or not. But my spider sense at the moment tells me I've got a pretty severe problem here that's a way bigger deal than the clutch pack. I'm doubtful the current plan is going to solve this.
Bottom line: I'm going to get this put back together with a fresh spacer, fresh crank seal, and re-sealed retainer clip screws. If that solves the problem, great. If not, I'm already thinking evil thoughts about a stroker crank.
I would pull the stator and inspect the case REALLY CLOSE for cracks. I think that was the year that had cracks around that area, which people usually found by... wait for it... low oil levels in the primary.
Omaha, I would definitely put blue Loctite on those screws for the plastic piece. Let's hope for the best that you have a leak at the seal/spacer. When I had the dreaded loose case insert, I was getting engine oil migrating from the engine into my primary. I tried putting the main engine sprocket seal in both ways (spring in and out) thinking it was the seal, but it wasn't. I know the '89 cases had loose case insert (mine), and it might have affected cases up to '91. My issue began around 60K miles mark. Good luck. Worse case, we get to see a stroker build.
I'm going to get the other stuff sorted, then see what's what with that.
Worst case scenario is I smoked the new clutch pack when the fluid ran low. I do know that it ran fine for the first however many hundred miles, which tells me it started acting up when the fluid ran low. My guess is that getting the fluid level back to where it needs to be will fix it.
Or not. But my spider sense at the moment tells me I've got a pretty severe problem here that's a way bigger deal than the clutch pack. I'm doubtful the current plan is going to solve this.
Bottom line: I'm going to get this put back together with a fresh spacer, fresh crank seal, and re-sealed retainer clip screws. If that solves the problem, great. If not, I'm already thinking evil thoughts about a stroker crank.
Maybe, fluid low smoked the clutches, but from what I see in your pics there was still a fair amount it her, yes low, but I don't know, I might be looking for a different cause, but then again maybe it was low enough to cause the slip
You want the lip of the seal flush with the lip on the case, right?
That particular seal had a short life. Barely a month. Pulled it and the stator, gave everything a clean, and it all looks lovely.
If there's a crack there, I can't see it. Maybe someone with better eyes sees something?
I also double checked the spacer. There's a visual rub line on it, but not enough to even catch a fingernail.
New spacer should be in tomorrow. Dealer had everything else in stock.
I'm more than a little bewildered by all this. Nothing I've seen presents as the obvious problem. And the more I think about those retainer clip screws, the less I can see how they're it. Doesn't make sense that after 25k ish miles they would just start leaking yet still be tight when I went to remove them.
Had a thought: Am I going about this backwards? Is it possible that something went bananas with the motor/breathing system that would cause a high level of vacuum in the cases? I can't visualize what that might be. Everything I can think of would cause high positive pressure, not negative. Thought I'd throw that out for thought anyway.
You got no issues with the insert that I can see. It would be a little ragged around the edges where steel meets aluminum if it were moving. It ain't the screws! Missing or otherwise, that will only put oil into the primary.
Looks like you set that seal even with the chamfer in the insert. (?) Flush with the outer edge is just fine. Do clean out all traces of the old seal paint from the interior of the bore. Use the old seal as cushion/driver between the new one and your hammer after you get it started straight. Keep it straight as possible as you go, takes a little time and patience - this ain't a wheel seal in a Kenworth. Don't forget to put the spacer in first though. (I've done that and dumber things too, believe me). Do all that, and I'll stand by my wager for the cost of the seal and spacer if it leaks
Most replacement clutches will run wet or dry - the key word there being or - not wet and dry. Once they're soaked, you can't use them dry after that. Take the clutch plates and discs out. Scrub the discs with diesel fuel or kerosene and a stiff nylon brush. Clean the smudges off the steel plates with a green scotch brite pad (household pot scrubber) Don't forget blue Loctite on the stator mounting screws.
If any, or all that fails, put a stroker in it, that'll fix everything... sorry, couldn't resist that one.
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sorry, couldn't resist that one.