Rear brake sticking

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Dec 22, 2021 | 09:52 AM

#11

stav

Thread Starter

Intermediate

Joined: Jul 2021

Posts: 31

Likes: 6

From: greece

Thank you all for your immediate responses, will try to fix it next week and update

Dec 22, 2021 | 03:28 PM

#12

98hotrodfatboy

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 21,115

Likes: 7,638

From: Poolville

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racepres

I would Say!!! I('m wondering just How folks get a rear Wheel Off/On, without removing the Caliper First???? Maybe I'm just Uncoordinated???

Sorry Racepres, "I respect you" but I do it all the time.. it's a little fenagling but totally doable.. Merry Christmas Brother...

Dec 22, 2021 | 03:47 PM

#13

strych9

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Aug 2017

Posts: 7,323

Likes: 11,760

From: Omaha,NE

I quick way to determine if it's an upstream hydraulic issue (lines, MC) is to get the brakes to hang, then crack the bleeder open on the caliper and see if the brakes released. If so, you could have an internally collapsed rubber brake line, or master cylinder/plunger issue. If it doesn't release, your issue is at the caliper.

Dec 22, 2021 | 04:36 PM

#14

t150vej

HDF Community Team

Joined: Dec 2005

Posts: 5,421

Likes: 2,621

From: NC USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by stav

Thanks, will do that. If that doenst work i guess i need to rebuild the caliper. Would that require to take out the rear wheel?

No. You actually need the wheel on there when setting it all up. Pay close attention to the shims and the part of the caliper mount where the pads sit. If the shims are worn, things don't work well and if left unattended can wear and break the caliper mount where the shoes ride. (plus all the other good tips you've received)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racepres

I would Say!!! I('m wondering just How folks get a rear Wheel Off/On, without removing the Caliper First???? Maybe I'm just Uncoordinated???

Depends on the year and model, Touring, Dyna or Softail. Getting the wheel off is no problem but the rotor bolts are so close to the caliper mount on most of them, it will most often save time to pull the caliper and pads before going back on, even if it's a pre-'93 Touring that requires removing the muffler hanger, rear crash bar/battery box. Why would anyone work back there without doing a brake/caliper/mount inspection and pin lube?

Dec 22, 2021 | 05:17 PM

#15

SirHarley

Road Warrior

Joined: Dec 2015

Posts: 1,826

Likes: 1,047

From: Southwest Desert

Just keep in mind that in the extreme rare cases a bad brake line can be the problem. I dont think that's your problem because the caliper releases when the old brake pads are installed. To me, that suggests that the caliper has a rough spot, or the piston is pitted. A rebuild should do it. Also consider your rotor runout. Your bike is an antique now, so anything is possible. Old parts just wear out from old age sometimes. When this is fixed, remember to change out your brake fluid every other year or so. Moisture builds up in old brake fluid. It will help avoid a lot of issues.