I've had this bike since 2011, it's been through a bunch of mods over the years, it's currently going through another round.
Some of the previous major mods include S&S111, Baker OD6, '06 swingarm with CCE spherical bearing kit, Streetglide wheels, Brembo brakes

I always disliked the old style fairing and wiring, and no way to put decent audio in it, would rather take an *** whipping than have to take that front fairing off, so after turning my '09 Ultra into the Road Glide you see in my sig pic, I saved the inner and outer fairing to one day install on the old '90 Ultra.

This is going in sort of a de-geezer/Street Glide direction, with some dechroming and new paint job when it warms up, being it's done in the drive way, I fought the cold painting the Kandy Brandy RG, I'm not fighting that again.

So this round it's getting the 2009 fairing, total new wiring and DD gauges, Dominator 10" bars(my broke up shoulder says no higher), Kenwood/Rockford/Arc Moto audio, seat of the '17 RG, razor tourpak.

To install the fairing, I used a '00-'13 top triple tree to accept a new '09-13 style ignition switch, used a one piece top clamp for the bars.
I bought a '05 and a '12 Ultra wire harness of ebay, 50 bucks each. De-pinned and disassembled both harness to build a new harness, about wore out a '08 service manual sifting back and forth through the wire harness pages to use as a guide.
The fuse/relay box is now under the left side cover, used a Badlands turn module, all led lights, the OD6 had a place for a VSS, so it now has a electronic speedo, so glad to get rid of that cable and drive, the gauges now include an oil temp with the sender install in the available bottom feed port on the S&S pump, since the top feed port is the one used from the oil tank.
Took a little over 100 mile ride the other day, everything working great, the voltage holding a steady 14.1 even with the 400watt amp blairing away, 13.8 at idle, the engine even feels stronger, maybe from the ignition system getting higher steady voltage.

That's all for now, will update more later


Beginning of harness teardown



Maxi fuse and fuse/relay box from a '05 touring


used mostly factory connectors and terminals, all correct color code, also used Deutsch connectors, bought 30 male pins/female socket pairs, used 29

Battery tender and amp fuses

Oil temp gauge sender

 

Very cool project man. Any benefits of swapping to a newer swingarm? Just curious. Did you run the OEM m/c with the Brembos? It looks like the stock one. I'm looking to possibly upgrade my front brake setup.

 

Assuming this is for your Wide Glide ?
Get a 4 piston Wilwood caliper from Summit Racing for $220
Works with stock M/C and bolts right on


Light years better than the stock `82-`99 brakes

 

Thanks Bryan, The swing arm let me use the Brembo brake, Street glide wheel with 1 inch axle, The best part is what it did for the handling and ride, no slop and moves free, put new rear donut mounts and slid Stabo bushings in them at the same time.
Using stock m/c front and rear, using dot 5, i’ve read where you shouldn’t use dot 5 in Brembo calipers, had no problems with them since installed around ‘14 or ‘15

 

Wow that was a cool bike when I saw it then, but it looks even better with the upgrades. Sure I can't talk you into another candy job?

 

Thanks Larry, that was my first and probably last true candy paint job, I'll use House of Kolor KBC(candy base coat) if I'm looking for candy paint colors in the future, way easier than true candy, might end up with some blue candy graphics on the black bike.

 

Man that ****in looks great........ Excellent job.. Hats Off.....

 

For anyone who might want to use a 2009+ seat on these old bikes, you just have to make a tab for the front, and install a seat nut if there's none on the fender like this bike.
The tab uses just one bolt, so you have to get the hole positioned where the square end of the tab will butt tight under the short original tab.




The metal on these older fenders must be a heavier gauge because the plastic retainer for the seat nut was too thick, so a thin nylon washer and e-clip worked fine.


The stock Street/Road Glide seats have wings on the lower front sides that I don't care for, so i modify these seats to my liking.
I like to cut off the wings to narrow the front, and cut 1" of the bottom of the foam to lower it.
To do that, remove the staples and take the seat apart, cut the wings off the seat pan, for the foam, take a drill bit and run a round of tape 1" from the end, drill a bunch of holes on the bottom of the foam to use as a depth gauge when shaping the foam, don't drill near the nose where it's already thin, I used a right angle die grinder with a 80 grit Rolloc sanding disk, adjusting the die grinder speed down helps control, after shaping the foam wrap the plastic film back on the foam and then the cover.
The hardest part is pulling and stapling the cover so it's straight and no wrinkles, I used 3/8" stainless staples and 1/4" where it's thin near the nose. Cut off the excess seat cover material.

Stock seat compared modified seat

 

Thanks hotrod, those gauges have a few neat features, the speedo has high speed recall, 0-60mph time, quarter mile time, quarter mile speed, the tach has hour meter, high rpm recall, shift light, gear indicator,
The oil pressure gauge has programable high and low psi warnings, the whole gauge blinks when limits are reached, so I didn't need a low pressure sender for the red low oil psi warning light, so the red oil light is now the shift light.

 

Very Cool.. Love the gauges and the seat looks great as well..