You could always make use of the "advance" or retard" option in Curvemaker. For example take curve 2 and move the whole curve 2-3 degree or whatever. Yes it can be time consuming loading and unloading, but just a thought.

Are you running a VOES? If so, you can tweak that so advance kicks in later or sooner as well.

Seems to me I heard the same numbers that t150vej mentioned. So what is the bottom line on how many degrees per line on the cam sensor?

 

I have used curvemaker in the past but the problem with that is once you lock in a custom curve you do not have the option of switching to another curve.. So say you have a curve that's set up for drag racing and you're running that in your module and then you just want to cruise you can't just switch it back to another curve like #2 or#3 for normal cruising, nice day ride.. The only way to get out of that custom curve is back through the computer.. By doing it the way I pointed out in my earlier post it's still a custom curve but yet you still have the option of going back and reselecting any other curve you want at any time..

No, not running a VOES at the current time.. But I was thinking of putting in a toggle switch to ground for the VOES wire like I did on my Shovel.. It worked very well... This way on really hot days or super heaven traffic, I didn't have to worry about detonation..

Here's my calculation for the timing increments.. I would rather use the cps to calculate because it has a larger diameter then the rotor cup.. Plus it has the marks on it..

 

Oh, I didn't "wash my face" before, with what you were wanting to do in the earlier post(s). I see what you're trying to do now! Personally, I'd use a dial back timing light (yeah, pita) and never trust a mechanical measurement for base timing, but this is interesting

One problem in your equation though. I made the same mistake trying to time a cam once. That is, your final math has an incorrect number, 9.11" ÷ 360 degrees. The cam turns half speed of the crank, so you have to use 9.11 ÷ (360 x 2). Or circumference of 9.11 ÷ 720 = .01265

I was using 3" for sensor diameter x 3.1416 (Pi) to get circumference and divided that by 720 when I posted .014 per timing degree earlier. (added .001 for reading off a cam cover scribe mark since it's further yet from the center)

 

So you're saying it would be .050" rotation or every 1° of timing.? Then at the cam plate sensor. If one degree is .050" then 5° would be .250" which is a 1/4". But yet in my pic above it shows the distance between the 2 long lines which we know is 5 degrees of timing to be .120" ( roughly). Hence back to my original distance of about .024".. I fully understand the cam turns once for every two revolutions of the crank... Math sucks.... Lol....

So based on the one to two ratio then every one degree of cam timing should be 2° of Crank timing. So technically if we move 5° on the cam we're actually moving 10° of crank shaft timing....

 

.......... more I read what I wrote, more confused I am.

 

It's too windy here to ride, I'll get my timing light out and make a mess after while and get this sorted out... in my mind anyway

 

Your right about the pudding contest.. Some would take offense but not all...
I like motor oil too, it works well...
And your welcome.. Sir.....

 

I'm glad y'all know what your doing.
I read all posts and now I got a headache.

And it's to early for beer Thanks guys LOL

WP

 

On an 8V71 Detroit Diesel, they can be setup to run CW or CCW. There are 2 cams, each different between left and right side and different depending whether it's a CW or CCW rotation, 2 idlers and the crank gear. When you line up the timing marks and turn the engine, you have to rotate it 28 times for the timing marks to ever line up again. Point being, I've worked on so much junk over the years that sometimes it runs together and bounces off my 3 remaining brain cells causing chaos. So, anyone subscribed who read the email notify text before I deleted it in post #15, my apologies. (other than the good conversation part)

So yes, definitely 5 degrees from long line to long line, verified with a light. If you notice, the lines are tighter toward the center. It's easier to "guess" looking thru the slot and eyeballing off a trigger window on the rotor.

Hotrod, I know exactly what you're trying to do with the switched curves and advancing sensor past base static 35 degree setting. I've done it on mine before (for different reasons). Personally, I'd use a dial back light set on 35, with the module set to curve #3 and time it to TDC mark. That'd put curve 3 at 35 total and curve 4 at 33 total. You just couldn't run it on 1 or 2 without being way too high. I trust the flash over what I might measure with a caliper but that's just me. We all have our methods and I'm big on "whatever works for ya"


Sun's up and half the day's wasted. What you waiting on?
Don't they sell Goody powders out there yet. I had them sent to me from here when I was working around Odessa in the '80's. Every place of business I ever went in back then, there was a small fridge full of beer for employees. So I figure if you're in West Texas and you're awake, it's not to early for a kol-beer

My motor oil is better than yours - it's in MY bike, that I ride. Your oil is worthless since it's in your bike and I'm not using it.

 

Not to much has changed out here since the 80's except a lot more people.
Well the beer frig is concealed a bit more nowadays.

A dial timing light Jeeeez I'll grab a beer and go see if I still have mine. It's been a long time

WP