Hi,
I recently replaced the base gaskets on my 1998 Electra Glide and after a few rides noticed a little bit of a wet mark around the left side of the rear cylinder (usually where the dreaded base gasket leak happens). Because the gaskets are so new, I checked the rear head bolt and noticed I was able to turn it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn with my torque wrench to get it back to 42 ftlbs (I used James gaskets and that was supposed to be the final torque spec. I also put the engine back together in some pretty cold weather - mid 40's or so. Not sure if that would effect anything). Could it have just vibrated loose a little bit and is re-torquing it ok to do? All the other head bolts were fine. Any ideas. Thanks.
Mark

 

The head bolt did not vibrate loose.

The stud may have pulled out of the case.

If the head bolt did not hold torque, the only solution is to remove the cylinder and investigate.

 

If the bolt was properly torqued in the first place and came loose, then, yeah, I'm with Dan. Problem down there. Now, that whole "torque to 42 ft lbs and walk away" thing never gave me a warm fuzzy feeling. I've had similar problems doing it that way on the Sportster. I always go with the torque to whatever inch pounds and then add a quarter turn, if I recall, whatever the book says to do. If it's screwed already, then tightening up the one loose bolt won't make it more screwed, so do it. Then check it daily to see if it got loose again, and if it does, tear down time.

 

Thanks Dr.Hess. Sounds like a plan.
Mark

 

How many miles did you get before you notice head bolt movement? When you pulled your cylinders for base gasket fix, did you get to inspect that all cylinder stud "flanges" were flat against the case?

At this time, you have options. If the head bolt is the outside rear one that you can get to, and clearly see, just try to re-tourque and mark a line and see if it moves. If you are lucky, it might hold. Did you lightly lube your head bolt thread and its face in order to get proper torque?

If your head bolt comes loose again, then you will have to investigate on a stud pulling off the case base.

 

It's been about 400 miles since I replaced the gasket. I checked the studs when I had the cylinders off and they were all seated and felt tight and I did use some oil when threading head bolts back on and everything seemed ok. I think I might have gone with the lower of the torque values that James Gaskets recommends (38ftlbs, I think). I usually go with the lowest so I don't strip anything when putting it back together - can't remember. I'm pretty new to wrenching on my bike, so I tend to be overly careful with tightening things. Marking a line on the bolt's a great idea. Thanks for that and thanks for the help (fingers crossed)
Mark

 

From the shop manual:

 

I saw that in the manual, too but I used James gaskets so just went with their torque sequence. Are you saying you still turn the bolt another 90% after torquing to 42ftlbs? I torqued the one bolt down to 42ftlbs and marked it like someone suggested. Then went for a good hour long ride. No more wet mark and the the mark I made on the bolt didn't move. I'll keep an eye on it and see. Thanks for all your help.
Mark

 

Do not torque the head bolts more than 42 ft. Lbs, or you'll pull the threads out of the crankcases.

 

Yeah, don't give it 90 after 42 ft lbs or you will be pulling it apart and helicoiling the cases. I just do what the book says, 16 ft lbs (192 INCH pounds) and then 90 degrees.