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I see I'm not the only one who noticed a wet front pulley. Might want to give that I better look. I hate to see you put it all back together just to take it apart for a leaky seal at the pulley.
wait, what are you seeing? Oil leak behind the drive pulley?
Couldn't remember the year... so the "modern starter" ('89 - up) long primary models you can pull the rotor with inner in place like the short primary, early starter FLs and FXRs. Thanks for the enlightenment Dan.
I didn't think pulling the rotor of any of the FL short primary models was an issue and the photos from the OP aren't enough to convince me otherwise. But, he's there, I'm not
Well, you're getting it done, that's the main thing. And I'll be first to admit, it's a lot easier to push the stator plug in and get the seal straight and flush with the inner out of the way.
Thanks and I agree. A few more steps but it's getting done...
And, did I read the instructions correctly - the wires coming off the stator don't need to be plugged into the vr in a specific way? They have no polarity?
And, the original vr wires went to the main breaker and a common ground in front of the battery. The instructions say to run the new wires directly to the battery. Does this matter?
Thanks and I agree. A few more steps but it's getting done...
And, did I read the instructions correctly - the wires coming off the stator don't need to be plugged into the vr in a specific way? They have no polarity?
And, the original vr wires went to the main breaker and a common ground in front of the battery. The instructions say to run the new wires directly to the battery. Does this matter?
Stator makes A/C so no polarity.
If the ground connections are optimum shouldn't matter on the negative. The original main breaker is 50 amps and it may not carry the alt current at full output. 100+ amp car charging systems go to directly to the battery or via starter cable connections. I suppose it may generate debate but I'd just follow the instructions and go to the battery.
wait, what are you seeing? Oil leak behind the drive pulley?
The "dish" portion of the pulley looks like it has a film of oil on it. I may be wrong as it is not a close up, but I did notice something that looks like a coating of oil. If it is a film of oil, it has to be coming from somewhere...usually it's either the IPB seal or from one of the seals on or in the shaft and or spacer. The inner primary bearing race has a rep for "walking" into the mainshaft 5th gear oil seal (the one you can hardly see) so I assume that was the reference by another poster.
Regardless, not trying to spook you, just take a look at it and make sure nothing is amiss. Again, I would hate to see you have to go back in after all back together.
You should not have had an issue with removing the stator.. I think because of the design of the stator (after market) it's what caused your issue of hitting the inner primary.. And yeah take a close look at the IPB race and make sure it did not walk into the seal.. It would suck to have to take it all back apart again..
Oil inside the pulley (orange scribble) is usually from the IPB seal or the 5th gear mainshaft seal (red arrow). As mentioned, the 5th gear mainshaft seal can be wiped out by the inner primary bearing inner race walking into it over time (the race is pressed onto the shaft). Should be a .100 to .125 inch clearance between the race and the edge of the threaded portion of the 5th gear (the part the nut threads on to) for proper positioning for the bearing and to get the race removal tool on.
Oil leaks behind the pulley are usually from the large spacer seal (the spacer is behind the pulley) and or a quad seal that is a funny shaped large O-ring that sits behind the spacer. If it smells like oil most likely the IPB seal which I assume your replacing anyways.
If it smells like trans fluid (differential fluid) then it could be the mainshaft seal.
BTW, use electrical tape on those splines and threads when fitting the inner primary back on. The splines/threads will damage your new IPB seal if you don't. Also coat the tape with some oil or grease.
Last edited by Yankee Dog; Jun 24, 2022 at 05:09 PM.
Howdy fellas,
I got it all back together and it's running well! I think I need to adjust the clutch but it's quiet and charging like it should!!
so, the oil on the drive sprocket is actually from the last time I had this sucker apart over the winter (about 1000 miles ago) to replace the trans output seal which was leaking. It was a huge mess and what you see is residual. Also, the Allen bolts that hold that collar in place backed out and dug into the inner primary.
See here: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...questions.html
Crazy...
But, thank you all for the help. Hope to see you out on the road!
Oil inside the pulley (orange scribble) is usually from the IPB seal or the 5th gear mainshaft seal (red arrow). As mentioned, the 5th gear mainshaft seal can be wiped out by the inner primary bearing inner race walking into it over time (the race is pressed onto the shaft). Should be a .100 to .125 inch clearance between the race and the edge of the threaded portion of the 5th gear (the part the nut threads on to) for proper positioning for the bearing and to get the race removal tool on.
Oil leaks behind the pulley are usually from the large spacer seal (the spacer is behind the pulley) and or a quad seal that is a funny shaped large O-ring that sits behind the spacer. If it smells like oil most likely the IPB seal which I assume your replacing anyways.
If it smells like trans fluid (differential fluid) then it could be the mainshaft seal.
BTW, use electrical tape on those splines and threads when fitting the inner primary back on. The splines/threads will damage your new IPB seal if you don't. Also coat the tape with some oil or grease.
This is great information by the way, Yankee. Thank you!
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